HI. I have a simple procedure that will help you achieve your goal. Follow carefully and with caution.
Once you have gained access to your motor, disconnect the motor's two wire leads from the wiring harness. Set your multimeter to the R x 1 setting. Touch each of the meter's probes to one terminal each. Your motor should show little resistance (a reading of zero, or close to zero).
Now check the ground connection. Place one probe on the bare metal housing of the motor. Place the other probe on each terminal, one at a time. You should not receive any reading on your meter from this test.
If your washer's motor fails either of these tests, you will need to replace it.
A simple continuity test will confirm failure at the thermal fuse, as well.
An open thermal fuse will usually indicate failure...
Hey- thermal ok. Motor got hot, not toast tho. Tested slightly higher in resistance than new motor, but still fine. Then I thought basics... Found the problem in the lid switch- partially functional, with erratic resistance values when closed. Wow. The simple stuff kicks my *** every time. Anyway- solution accepted. Will take back 215$ motor and get the 'tune-up' stuff-- a new drive couple kit and a water pump. This one seems to drag a bit. Thanks for your time and the info-- Ed
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