Left door open, closed next day, but only blowing cool air now

Is the compressor running? If not - the timer could be stuck in defrost mode. If it is ruinning, then the freezer coil should be cold. If it is choked with frost & ice - then the defrost heater isn't getting powered (bad timer or defrost terminator - or is getting powered but has burned out.

You should allow the ice and frost to melt completely before turning back on again. Typically ice and frost don't build up so bad in a few days time to cause the temperature rise you're describing If getting cold - the compressor and refrigerant is likely OK, if not the defrost circuit is suspect. If compressor running but not getting cold - a refrigerant leak / charge level may be causing the problem.

yes it must be shut off and completely defrosted.with doors left open it usually takes about 2 days. what happened if you look at the back wall in the freezer from the inside you will see a bunch of ice and there is more behind that panel you are looking at. it froze up the coils so that no air will get through them. good luck rich

Same thing happened to me, turns out the compressor when bad at the same time the door was left open, it was pure coincidentally, had nothing to do with the door being left open.

Sounds like frost bulidup from door being left open warm air gets in making frost and ice. Need to turn off for 24hrs or so to let all the ice melt compleatey then turn back on keep door closed run for 24hrs check Temp. shoud be about 0 to -5 Deg. if good start using.

This is normal when compressor starts u can hear some gurgling from evap. from feron flowing. If you hear gurgling only when you close the door it's water in drain pan when you close the door air is forced down drain tube blowing air into water.

Air flow is very important. Make sure the vents in the back where the air blows are not restricted. Check to make sure any of the food is blocking the door from closing all the way or in the way of the door seal.

Take a look at the back wall near the bottom of the freezer, if you see frost build up on it you may have a defrost problem. Look for frost around the door on the inside liner or door shelves, if this is found then you have a door sealing problem.

fully defrost unit with door open.do not use hot water.
load up with cold food and switch on the unit will take upto 24hrs to reach normal.poss cause ice around coils ...

Place a glass of lukewarm water on one of the freezer shelves. Leave the freezer door closed overnight. Check the water in the morning to see if the freezer has brought the temperature down. It takes quite awhile for refrigeration units to recover from heat loads such as door open for extended periods of time.

You need to check the temp in the freezer to make sure it's down to around 10 degrees. The alarm will go off much above that.

This will not cause a freon leak and it is possible that the door was left open, but to be certain that you don't have a defrost issue, follow the guide below to diagnose any problems. Also the warm walls are normal during compressor run times.
Below is a link that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
http://www.repairclinic.com/0047_3.asp
If your freezer cools but doesn't get cold enough, it may have a problem in one of several areas. To better understand the proper operation of a freezer, read about freezers in the How Things Work section of our website.

In a self-defrosting freezer, poor cooling often results from a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel inside your freezer. But if you see any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, ceiling, or floor of your freezer, it's a sure sign of frost build-up. And that's a sign of a problem with the self-defrosting system.

Freezers should self-defrost three to four times in 24 hours. But if a component in the self-defrosting system fails, the freezer continues to try to cool, instead. Eventually, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There's still some cooling because the coils are frozen. But with no air flow over the coils, the cooling is quite limited and the freezer isn't as cold as it needs to be.

An easy (though often inconvenient) test of whether the problem is with the self-defrosting system is to remove all of the perishable food from the freezer, turn the thermostat to Off, and leave the door open for 24 to 48 hours. (Keep several towels handy in case the melting frost and ice overflows the drip pan). This "manually" defrosts the freezer. When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the freezer then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of these components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer. To test this, manually advance to the defrost cycle. The unit should advance itself out of the defrost cycle in about 45 minutes.
  
  
• The defrost thermostat (or bi-metal switch). This thermostat allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees (depending on its design). This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on.
  
  
• The defrost heater. You can test this for continuity using an electrical meter.

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Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"