Door latch is not unlocking

check and manually move linkage to unlock ---use a long screwdriver to move lock mechanism or if unlocked move latch to release

rewpa, 98% chance the door latch has stuck in the locked position. Yes, follow Maytags suggestion to access the "rip cord" for the door latch... (this is the mechanical override for it) to get the door open. After it's open, run another load of wash and see if it happens again. If it does, it is the door latch assy. that's the problem. BTW, the door lock light is activated by a switch in the door latch assy. There's a "motor" in the assy... it's made of WAX! Yes, a "wax motor". Before the computer goes into spin, it sends 120V to this motor. The electricity heats the wax and it expands. As it expands, it pushes a plunger forward. This plunger trips both the door lock AND the switch. This sends the signal to the door light AND the computer saying "I'm locked! Go ahead and Spin!" When the cycle is complete, the computer drops the voltage to the wax motor. The wax cools off and contracts. This retracts the plunger... opening the door and shutting off the light. So... if this light stays on, the plunger is still extended and can be overridden using the rip cord. If this happens again, let me know and I'll step you through disassembly and replacement of the wax motor.

Fuel Fill Door Description and Operation
The fuel door latch actuator shares the circuit with the driver door latch assembly. The body control module (BCM), upon receipt of a lock switch lock or unlock signal, will switch the appropriate door lock actuator, as well as a fuel filler door release actuator control circuits to battery positive voltage. The opposing side of the door lock and fuel filler door release actuators is connected to ground by the I/P fuse block through the other door lock actuator control circuit and the doors, along with the fuel filler door release, will lock or unlock as commanded.
Circuit/System Testing

1. Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the fuel door release actuator.
2. Test for less than 1 ohm between the control circuit terminal 1 and ground.
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If greater than the specified range, test the control circuit for a short to voltage or an open/high resistance.

3. Test for less than 1 ohm between the control circuit terminal 2 and ground.
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If greater than the specified range, test the control circuit for a short to voltage or an open/high resistance.

4. Connect a test lamp between the control circuit terminal 1 and control circuit terminal 2.
5. Ignition ON, command the doors to LOCK and UNLOCK by using the door lock switch. The test lamp should illuminate while commanding the LOCK and UNLOCK states.
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If the test lamp remains OFF during either command, test either control circuit for a short to ground.

6. If all circuits test normal, test or replace the fuel door release actuator.

Component Testing

1. Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the fuel door release actuator
2. Install a 15A fused jumper wire between the control terminal 1 and 12V. Momentarily install a jumper wire between the control terminal 2 and ground. The fuel door release actuator should perform the LOCK/UNLOCK function.
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If the function does not perform as specified, replace the fuel door release actuator.

3. Reverse the jumper wires. The fuel door release actuator should perform the UNLOCK/LOCK function.

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If the function does not perform as specified, replace the fuel door release actuator.

Remove the rear compartment side trim (right) panel. Refer to Rear Compartment Side Trim Panel Replacement .

• My door latch happened to be stuck in the lock position - which blocked the path of the latch on the door.
• I was able to make my way to the inside of the latch assembly and figured out how to release the latch so that it was in the unlock position by firmly depressing the metal plate and pushing the latch up into the assembly. (The metal plate is difficult to depress due to the heavy-duty spring, but it can be done.)
• After releasing the latch to the unlock position, I re-assembled it.
• I connected the wiring harness and hung it in the bracket.
• Beyond that, I didn't see anything loose, so I re-installed it.

Spray lubricant down lock plunger shafts and into latch areas if possible. Work locks on and off and try to loosen things up.

open the latch by unlocking and operating the door release handle and if it does not unlatch then use a tool like a screwdiver to pull the latch open when the door release is activated

Same thing happened with mine. It turned out that the power door lock motor went out. Since the handle or the switch can unlock the driver's door, both of these mechanisms are connected. When the door lock motor goes out it freezes in whatever position, it was last engaged.

You will need to remove the hatch panel, and release it manually. It is a pain in the **** with the hatch closed, but it can be done.

welll there are 3 screws across the bottom front of the panel (torx 15) the lower acees panel can be removed, from there you can gain access to the backside of hte lock assy and manually release it. simply run your hand up the right side, just below the lock/latch assy ther is a quarter sized/teardrop shaped pull cord. thos will release the door, for you

hi if the timer is on off/finished cycle and door wo'nt open? it may well be the micro switch that is stuck this is the time delay that prevents you from opening door till light goes off ?? it is not uncommon and part is obtainable if you wish diy? by removal of rear panel then the top panel to gain access to door latch/lock attached to inside of front panel you could try tripping plunger back to release door lock first then replace this switch just for info i have removed and found the switch plunger stuck with grit/grease and cleaned it with electical cleaning spray then refitted and prob rectified but your choice ?? hope this helps