I am also having this problem and can not locate the "thermal breaker" my corded 18" corded electric motor does not run although outlet and cord ok - mower is 2 years old
In the older models there is no magic switch--you have to remove the top and then locate a screw on a triangular piece of metal--this is where this so called switch is! What happens is that over time the two wires that are necessary to make the circut from electrical energy to the motor ware and this was what was creating the break in the circut. Good luck repairing it!In the older models there is no magic switch--you have to remove the top and then locate a screw on a triangular piece of metal--this is where this so called switch is! What happens is that over time the two wires that are necessary to make the circut from electrical energy to the motor ware and this was what was creating the break in the circut. Good luck repairing it!
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the brush on the black wire is the part that usally wears the rectifier is not the problem
or your switch could not be making contact as i first reportedthe brush on the black wire is the part that usally wears the rectifier is not the problem
or your switch could not be making contact as i first reported
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You need to check this following: Make sure the dryer is plugged in securely Check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker Test the power outlet for voltage Inspect the electrical cord for damage Eliminate use of an extension cord, if any is being used Check the outlet voltage Test the door switch Test the start switch Test the safety fuse Test the thermostats Test the timer motor Test the motor
Having checked the thermal fuseto be good i will give you a partial list other things that could make the dryer not start
start switch
door switch
timer
circuit breaker, use your meter set to volts ac and check for 240 vac at the outlet,if 240 not at power outlet check for burnt connection inside outlet or bad circuit breaker
if 240vac at outlet check for 240 vac at terminal block on back of dryer where cord connects,if 240 at outlet but not terminal block replace cord , if burnt connection at terminal block,replace cord and block
finally the motor,manufactures do not publish wiring diagrams online and the only way for me to tell you to use jumper cord to check motor is find the wiring diagram inside of control panel and place one wire on the terminal indicated as neutral on wiring diagram and one wire on terminal indicated on diagram as run winding
firstly though check door switch to have contunity (0 ohms) and the start switch to have (0 ohms)WHILE PUSHING IT IN(the start switch isa momentary contact switch and will only have contunity while its pushed in) to check timer again use wiring diagram and find chart that shows various cycles and with timer set to a cycle the two wires is says will have contunity will be indicated by a solid black line on the diagram
Remove the electrical cord and check the conituity for a short. If one replace the cord. If no short is found the motor is fried although the switch would have to be on when it smokes so I think you have a bad cord
There should be what is called a "thermal breaker" on this. It should either re-set itself or you may have to push a little button down by the motor.
Please let me know, we repair this kind of equipment.
Hello there : There are severaol things that could cause this to happen Things to check are :- house fuse or breaker ( needs two
of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse (
not all models ), motor
heat switch, timer, selector
switch, burnt power cord/plug. I know that you have checked the thermal fuse so you dont have to worry about this.ok
plug something else into outlet and see if it works your outlet/ wiring maybe bad if it works your power cord for fridge maybe bad have a short in it if outlet or cord is bad call eletrictian
are you getting voltage when you say you checked outlet? is it a gas or electric dryer? should have 220 or so at dryer for electric and 120 for gas. if voltage ok, trace it through to fuse most likely. no light in dryer means no voltage...
In the older models there is no magic switch--you have to remove the top and then locate a screw on a triangular piece of metal--this is where this so called switch is! What happens is that over time the two wires that are necessary to make the circut from electrical energy to the motor ware and this was what was creating the break in the circut. Good luck repairing it!
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