My hot water tank won't start, i can hear humming sound from the blower, but blower doesn't run, ant it does no heat.

The horrible noise you hear when the water heater fires up is probably caused by mineral buildup in the bottom of the tank. Hot water rises and flows by convection to the top of the tank. When you take a shower or turn on the dishwasher, the hot water you use is replaced by cold water that migrates to the bottom of the tank to be heated.

As far as the fix, regular maintenance is the key. The best thing a homeowner can do is to flush the water heater on a monthly basis. This simple process involves hooking up a garden hose to the drain valve at the base of the heater, opening the valve and with the water inlet valve open to maintain the pressure in the tank, allowing the water to flow until the water runs clean. Try this first. It may help. If not, de-liming is the other option.

If it has no oil ports, replace the motor

You installed pressure reducing valve? Because pressure over 80 psi can damage water heater, plumbing fixtures and pipes.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-TP-valve.html#expansion
Copy following link for testing hot water pressure:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html
Copy following links for resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/New-water-heater-making-noise.html
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/
Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Probably the factory-installed heat trap nipples are clogged.
Open following links.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html#trap
Noisy whistling and humming and low pressure are common problem with heat trap nipples and inserts from factory.
Replace heat-trap nipples with pex-lined nipples, or remove heat trap inserts with screwdriver or needle nose... careful not to break insert so it falls into tank ... which can then get lodged in hot water line elbow or under-sink shut off.
Factory-installed heat traps are part of overall strategy so manufactures can claim more efficient water heaters, without requiring customers to any thinking.
Other strategies include foam insulation instead of fiberglass (so that wires cannot be replaced on electric units), reducing factory-set temperature from previous 130-135 to 100-120, and re-estimating downward the hot water use for average family.
So some of the strategies are useful, while others problematic or imaginary.
Call manufacturer to pay-for or provide new pex-line nipples. Warranty for fist year covers Labor and parts, and after 1st year, warranty covers parts
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html
Save $10 a month in future replacement costs: maintain water heater so it lasts longer:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-maintain-water-heater.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Factory-installed heat traps can cause this problem:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html#trap
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html#heat-trap

Remove heat traps, or heat trap inserts, or heat trap nipples.
Make your own heat traps, and save 4-9$ per year, using flex copper connections, or reconnect pipes in heat-trap configuration.
Always insulate pipes.
With electric heater, pipe insulation can run all the way to tank.
With atmospheric-vent gas water heater, the pipe insulation cannot obstruct air intake at draft hood. With power vent gas, the pipe insulation can run all the way to tank.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1) Thermostat may be bad, or out of calibration. Set temperature higher, and/or troubleshoot by type of gas control.
Copy following link to troubleshoot by type of gas control valve:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html#intellivent
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-temperature-on-water-heater.html


2) Dip tube broken
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-dip-tube.html

3) Water leak running hot water out of tank.
Turn off all taps and put ear against pipe listening for water leak.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

No the top thermostat is the first place I would start to replace. They run about 14.00 more than likely it isn't controling right. Turn power supply to water heater off and replace thermostat.

If you was getting scalding hot and then turning cold without tripping the thermostat it would be the top element working and the bottom one bad.
Bottom element good it will give you luke warm water for a while then gradually turn cold because it's heating the bottom of the tank.

Hope this will help you out.

It doesn,t like your boyfriend

It is probable a lime build up in the bottom of the water heater tank. You can remove the bottom heating element and clean the lime out, keep in mind this sometimes turns into quite a job though. And you may damage the heating element during removal and have to purchase a new element.