Kenmore Elite 22.4 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer Refrigerator with Adjusta Cube Ice Maker Logo
Anonymous Posted on Mar 18, 2010

Freezer whistles after closing door; new sound after a freon rech

Yesterday a repairman said our freezer was low on freon, so he gave it a recharge and soldered the end of a line where he thought it was leaking out. Now the freezer works great again, but it makes a new, faint whistle sound for a few seconds each time after you close the freezer door. I'm worried it's the freon leaking out somewhere else. It's only 4 years old and we haven't had any trouble until just the other day when the freezer stopped freezing properly.

  • Anonymous Mar 18, 2010

    Thanks! I shook the refrigerator (no candy fell out) but it didn't make the whistling sound. It seems to be a direct result of shutting the freezer door. When I open the door, I can hear the fan turn off. But when I shut the door, the fan kicks in, and a second or so later, the whistling sound whirrs up and dies away after a couple seconds. I think it's possible it's coming out of a cap that the handyman put on yesterday - you think? I'm not sure if the cap was there before he worked on it, but I read that sometimes they have to puncture the line to check the pressure, and then cap it up.

  • Anonymous Mar 18, 2010

    Thanks! I'm not sure how to watch the gasket - maybe the problem is that I'm not a "sir." :) But there is definitely more suction now. The whistling is coming from in back from a line I think.

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Yes sir,your unit is working well right now, at this stage, freezer section is already at the peak of its performance, it creates suction motion as you close the door (frzr). with this, sometimes you can hear whistling sound or most of the time.it is only a sign that the cooling system is working well.as the temperature goes down it happens, to see it, watch the gasket how it behaves during that moment sir.there is a suction sound.blower is also in suction motion because it diverts airflow going to ref section thus creating this behaviour on the gasket and the door as a whole, dont worry sir that is normal, or try to clean the tip of the gasket to reduce the slipping sound.

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There might just be an unwanted kink bend in the freon line. That when the fridge is jiggled, such as the closing of the door, that jars it open enough to whistle.
Freon does not normally leave any refrigerant unit without a spot to leak. The entire system is a pressurized closed loop. If the repair man just gave you freon without checking where the leak was that was just foolish and dumb. BUT don't jump on him, because they are at times very very difficult to find.
Shake the refrigerator hard and listen. If you hear the hiss, then yes you still have the problem with leaking freon.

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We had a lot of inquiries with what we call whistling appear to be from different problems which here below:

First case, whistling sound is what we call "Ghosting". To get rid of this sound one needs to put more gas into the system, but more gas will create the suction pipe to frost up and reducing the gas level will create less cooling. The best solution were to full regenerating Freon gas mean remove it filter it out and charge it back. However this will cost more $100 and basically you can leave it and live with it. No harm is created only the sound appears while running.

Second case were with a loud whistling, like a dying bird stuck in your freezer, you likely have a faulty freezer fan motor and you need to be replaced


Third case were with a lower pitched, sort of gentle whistling sound then you have an issue with the door damper, which allows the air flow from the freezer into the refrigerator. And assuming you don't have any cooling problems, it may simply be a normal occurrence, as some makes and models open and close this damper door automatically, and when it is closed, can sometimes cause a low whistling noise

Fourth case was making a moaning, whistling noise coming from just above the ice maker. It happened when the fan speed changed. We found out that the motherboard was probably defective.
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Fifth the evaporator fan motor should not change speeds in less than 1 minute of time. The fan motor has two speeds. Usually this is a indication of a failing main board. If you have a meter you can do a voltage check at the J-2 connector on the board. Check for 13VDC between pins J2-3 and J2-8 and 8 to 13VDC between J2-3 and J2-4. If this voltage stays steady, your problem lies in the evaporator fan motor. If this voltage drops out or fluctuates, it's more than likely the board need to be replaced

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First case, whistling sound is what we call "Ghosting". To get rid of this sound one needs to put more gas into the system, but more gas will create the suction pipe to frost up and reducing the gas level will create less cooling. The best solution were to full regenerating Freon gas mean remove it filter it out and charge it back. However this will cost more $100 and basically you can leave it and live with it. No harm is created only the sound appears while running.
Second case were with a loud whistling, like a dying bird stuck in your freezer, you likely have a faulty freezer fan motor and you need to be replaced


Third case were with a lower pitched, sort of gentle whistling sound then you have an issue with the door damper, which allows the air flow from the freezer into the refrigerator. And assuming you don't have any cooling problems, it may simply be a normal occurrence, as some makes and models open and close this damper door automatically, and when it is closed, can sometimes cause a low whistling noise
Fourth case was making a moaning, whistling noise coming from just above the ice maker. It happened when the fan speed changed. We found out that the motherboard was probably defective.
Rather than go thru GE, you can found a new one online for 66 bucks. You can replaced it in about ten minutes and it's all fixed.
Fifth the evaporator fan motor should not change speeds in less than 1 minute of time. The fan motor has two speeds. Usually this is a indication of a failing main board. If you have a meter you can do a voltage check at the J-2 connector on the board. Check for 13VDC between pins J2-3 and J2-8 and 8 to 13VDC between J2-3 and J2-4. If this voltage stays steady, your problem lies in the evaporator fan motor. If this voltage drops out or fluctuates, it's more than likely the board need to be replaced.
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