Tiled shower is leaking in one corner , installed 1 year ago

hi doug. the only issue with tile is that drilling holes in tile requires a special tile cutting drill bit. These are common. I got some last week at a home depot. J.

Don't cover area where plastic guard should be. Make it flush. Some trim is designed to recess into the wall before it's flush. Screws, adapters, trim etc. all will need to be installed when tile is set. Make sure you have nipples extending out from shower head and spout area's as well. If you do this and think ahead a little, you will have fewer problems assembling trim.

There are two ways that I would do it depending on the width of the ledge on top of shower base. If you have enouch room I would shim studs with strips of material thick enough to bring the surface out even with flange on shower base. Then I would put cement board(wonder board) on wall and over shower flange to set on top of shower base. Finish seams on wall board per manufacturers directions,Let seam filler dry then seal with thompsons water seal or equivalent sealer. Let that dry then tile on that grouting and sealing with quality caulk at joint between shower base and tile.
If ledge on shower base is not wide enough then I would place cement board directly to studs then use filler strips on face of shower base flange to bring two surfaces flush. Water seal let dry and tile again coming down over top of shower. Grout and caulk to finish. P.S. I would use a siliconized latex emulsifier to mix in with grout. It gives a better ware proof seal. Hope this helps you. Good luck and thank you.

Did you use plastic pipe? What about the shower head? Does it have a rubber o-ring in it? Pull the pipe out of the wall at the shower head and peek inside for the o-ring. If it is there, just snug up the pipe, do not over tighten. We were ready with crow bars in hand to destroy a brand new shower we just finished, because we thought we had w broken pipe, Then the owner says he torqued up the shower head as tight as he could and I read where it had to be just finger tight. One more place to check is the faucet itself, take off the trim ring and look in there for drips. It could be filling up the wall cavity and stay wet for days. I would take apart the drywall on the other side before busting up the tile again. Check it out.

Hello. I can assist you. Your shower pod is and will continue to leak no matter how much it is sealed for this reason - the floor underneath is not doing an adequate job of support. You will have to remove the pod to see what is going on underneath, either there is a weak board, a rotten board, or an undersized floor joist situation whereby the weight of your pod and its occupant is not being supported.

if you have a closet behind the shower or a wall you may be able to get to the diverter without damage to the tile ,are you sure you can't just change the cartridge? most times this is all that is needed to fix a problem like yours.

The metal bracket is applied after the tile. That is the reason for the reinforcement between the studs.

You have a leak where the back plate goes up to the wall OR there is a gasket missing from the trim installation. If this is a tile shower i would suspect the first and use clear tub/tile chaulking to seal around the edge of the plate paying close attention to the grout lines.

Phil

There are four golden rules for installing a shower enclosure. The first golden rule is to make sure that the shower tray is level. If it is not, then problems will occur throughout the rest of the installation. Use a good quality spirit level and where possible install a tray that has adjustable legs. There are often problems associated with tiling over upstands as some are thick and difficult to set into the wall. The second golden rule is to install a tray that has a slim tiling up stand which is vertical and an integral part of the tray: This will make the installation easier, quicker and ensure it is totally watertight. Before installing the shower enclosure the third golden rule must be followed. A silicone sealer needs to be applied all the way around the join where the tiles meet the tray: This must be sealed first, to ensure there is no chance of water getting behind the wall channels and then into the walls. This is one of the biggest problems associated with shower installations but is easily solved if the silicon sealer is applied before the enclosure is fitted. The final golden rule is to fit the enclosure to the tiled surface and not on to a plastered wall, tiling up to it afterwards. Having installed the enclosure it is essential to use the same high quality silicone sealer around the outside of the enclosure. Sealing on the inside will cause leaking- not prevent it.