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. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start. Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms. If the overload protector does not pass this test, it should be replaced.. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start. Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms. If the overload protector does not pass this test, it should be replaced.
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That's 2 psi on the suction side of the compressor, which should be about -10 degrees. I suspect the high pressure side will be the 140 psi. If you need to add freon (134), you have a leak and it needs to be fixed.
The answer to your actual question is--- check your LRA on compressor plate. If voltage hp and LRA are the same then yes. Also if you ohm the terminals on compressor place lead on any terminal and place other lead on grounded surface on cabinet. The will let you know if you a grounded compressor. If none of terminals lead to ground then it could possibly be you relay. If any more info is needed just ask. Thanks Logan
A regulator controls the pressure in the air line leaving the compressor and does not affect when the compressor turns on or off.
The pressure switch monitors the pressure in the tank and turns the compressor motor on and off when the switch closes or opens in response to changes in the tank pressure. If the compressor does not shut off, it is possible the pressure switch has been set to a pressure level that is higher than the compressor is capable of attaining, thus it does not shut off.
The compressor is capable of developing 150 psi and is noted as having a "120 psi cut-in pressure". When you say it doesn't shut off, does that mean it will generate 150 psi or more of pressure and fails to shut off or it develops less than 150 psi and does not shut off.
If the compressor does not generate 150 psi, then it is probably somewhat worn out and not capable of developing enough pressure to meet the factory high pressure limit. I would try adjusting the pressure switch upper pressure limit down to 130 psi or less (less if the compressor will not develop 130 psi) and see if this solves your problem If it doesn't,
If the compressor will develop 150 psi or more, then try adjusting the high pressure limit to less than 150 psi. If you can't adjust the high pressure limit then the pressure switch is defective and needs to be replaced.
90 psi for 134a is to high, should be around 40 psi. the 140 that you are seeing is the test pressures for that side of the system and does not reflect operation pressures. sounds like it is over charged. hope this helps.
If the compressor came on when you were testing it with a test light, it sounds like something is wrong with your ground for your compressor, and completely the circuit through your test light.
Hi there. This is normal. The pressure is set to stop at around 120-140 PSI as a safety measure. It probably kicks in again around 80 PSI so as to remain pressurized between 80 and 140 PSI. Since most air tools operate in this range, it is ok for the compressor to maintain pressure in that range. You do not want to adjust the maximum pressure safety release valve as it could be extremely dangerous as certain components in the compressor may only be rated up to 140 PSI or slightly higher before they fail or blow apart.
The pressures depend, somewhat, on the expansion device,i.e. a TXV or Cap Tube. Take a pressure reading, then convert it to a temperature. The evap temp should be right at 10 colder than the box temp. Remember, heat flows to cold so the evap has to "Lead the Load" in order to cool. In many cases, the condensing pressure is usually ambient temp, plus 30, then convert to a pressure. These are general accepted practices that have been used for many years.
U NEED TO ADJUST THE PRESSURE SWITCH ON THE BACKUP TO A LOWER PSI. TO COME ON AFTER THE PRIMARY. EXAMPLE: PRESSURE SWITCH ON PRIMARY COMP. SET AT 140-175 PSI AND BACKUP SET AT 135-170 PSI. U CAN USUALLY TURN ONE CENTER SCREW IN THE PRESSURE SWITCH COUNTERCLOCKWISE TO LOWER THE PSI.
. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start. Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms. If the overload protector does not pass this test, it should be replaced.
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