Maytag LA212 Toploading Washer - leaks as soon as a load is started. Will continue to leak until washer is stopped. Not a small leak - there is a puddle two days later in the floor below it. Removed front panel to try and see more clearly where water was going - appeared to be entering the cavity of the machine in the top left corner.

SOURCE: Water leaking from the bottom of the washer at the rear right corner!

firstly check that the inflow water pipes connected to the machine are connected correctly, feel around the pipes that touch the machine to see if there is any water. If there is the washers may need replacing on the pipe. Or the pipe may simply have got a bit loose through the machines spinning.

SOURCE: Leaking on the floor on "small load" setting only

I have been selling and been doing factory authorized service on GE for nearly 30 years. I have sold many of this model. It's hard to imaging that a machine would leak water on small loads but not larger loads. In a case such as this, a servicer must remember to test the machine exactly as the home owner is using it. I would take pull the machine away from the wall and adjacent cabinets and dryer if hoses permit, (so that I could rule out water coming from somewhere other that the washer) remove the front panel, and have the home owner run the exact cycle with the exact settings and the same clothes load and soap used when the machine leaked. I suspect that some water is splashing over the wash tub. If you use a gentle cycle or a larger load you get less splashing. Even having a few more cloths items in the machine would reduce splashing. You might not expect a solution, but you do deserve an explanation. Some times the solution is strange, for example: I had a customer who said the washer leaked a lot of water onto the floor the first time it was used in the day, but worked great the rest of the day. I came out early the next day and tested the machine, and it did exactly that. What happened was the builder added on this new laundry room and the drain pipe went through the floor before the plumber added the trap. The builder then insulated the area but put the insulation on the room side of the trap, allowing cold air to freeze and plug the drain. After warm water pumped into the drain and most of the water overflowed the top of the pipe onto the floor, the rest of the water melted the ice in the trap and the machine worked fine until the next day after the water had a chance to form a later of ice in the trap again. The fix was simply to move the insulation to the other side of the trap. (OK, here in Minnesota we run into weird things like that, but my point is to test the machine exactly as it is used to find where the problem lies) I'd like you to post a comment when you find your solution.

SOURCE: Top loading maytag washer leaking water during wash cycle

Hi, There are two spring clips located in the gap between the top and front panel. They are the edges.
If the pump and hoses aare ok, fill the washer with water and look up toward the center of the tub abd transmission area. It migth have a seal going bad.

I hope this helps.

Vic

SOURCE: Maytag A482 washer from 1985. Leaking water from

probably has a pin hole leak where it has been rubbing the tub. Does the tub have a seal at the top of it where it meets the top. Could be the seal is going bad.

SOURCE: Kenmore Washer 80 Series is leaking. Water and

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110-25864400

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the section for the basket and tub assembly's

I'd pull the cabinet in order to get to the hoses going to and from the pump first.

See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131

If the hoses are fine, I'd also check the gaskets at the bottom of the tub.

If you're reasonably mechanically inclined, these are easy fixes.

If you have to get to the gaskets at the bottom of the tub, see the following for how to remove the agitators, pump, motor, transmission, spin tube and basket.

(It sounds a bit complicated but it's not really that difficult.)

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.

As an aside, see the following Whirlpool Service Manual for top load direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Depending on the problem (hoses or gasket) it's certainly less expensive than calling in a repair person.