Bit will not come out of the end of the hammer drill.

Hi. Just to clarify, it is a rotary hammer drill, not an impact drill? In most cases those machines put out 3 joules of energy on the back of the drill bit. If it was a cheap bit, the hammer action "mushrooms" the end of the bit making it difficult to remove. You could try to force it out using a bench vise, but you could damage the chuck.

Have seen this problem with some 'none' HILTI bits which do not fit correctly into the SDS chuck.
Tends to be with larger drill bits which have a wider shank than the SDS connector, the wider shank hits the end of the drill nose which stops the end of the drill bit contacting with the internal hammer.
Solution is to purchase original bits from Hilti. If you have OEM bits and chisel it will be another problem. Hope this helps.

The end of the drill is 2 parts hold the bottom part(closes to the drill) and turn the top part (the end the bits in) and turn it a 1/4 turn counter clockwise that opens the chuck then pull the bit out to replace do the opposite. Don't let the end at the drill spin or it will come off the drill completely if that happens simply line it back up and tap it hard to get it back on

Go to this LINK.

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The TE-70 is permantly lubricated. You would only add lubricant if you took the tool apart. You can add a small amount of grease to the end of your bit occasionally before putting in the chuck. This keeps the chuck parts lubed.

if you have access to a vise I would lock the chisel in it and pull on the release collar and then take a dead blow hammer and "tap" on the drill to try and pull it away from the chisel.

The drill uses bits with the SDS+ connection end. You have three different modes of operation. Hammer drill for drilling into concrete. Drill only for drilling into wood or steel and chip only for chiseling concrete. Now for drill only you would have to change out the chuck for a jacolbs style.

The bits just snap in the chuck. To remove the bits you just slide the chuck sleeve back and remove the bit. To change the chuck you wolulld place the palm of your hand over the chuck and using your fingers pull the sleeve on the chuck that is near the red housing towards your palm and just pull off the chuck.It will snap back on the same way.

Other than two quick squirts of WD40 and nice new chuck key?

The spade bit sold with the hammer drill was actually too large for the hammer drill. We found that the spade bit had over heated (not from overuse or heavy use as only two ladies were using the hammer drill) but because the bit was too large it put too much weight on the drill. The bit had to be removed from the chuck using a hammer and force causing a bearing to come out and the chuck now needs repair. Solution repair the chuck on the hammer drill and buy a lighter spade bit. Then continue jackhammering the cement out of the shower cubicle.

Two drive systems are available on both the hammer drill and the rotary hammer models: 1. SDS (or Slotted Drive System) bits for hammer drills/rotary hammers allow the bit to slide in the chuck and enhance the hammering action of the tool. For most applications, these bits provide plenty of torque. 2. SDS Max bits are similar to SDS bits, but have larger shanks and come in larger sizes than SDS bits. These powerful bits are useful in industrial applications.