When Li-Ion batteries are discharged to a too low voltage (below 2,75 V/cell, in this case 13,75V) the charger will assume that the battery is damaged, and will not charge the battery. First measure the battery voltage with a volt meter, if the voltage is significally below the 13 V the battery are no good. If you have a reading of lets say around 10 V, you can raise the voltage shortly on the battery, by jumping it with a fully charged battery. Connect the "-" poles on each battery. After this, shortly connect the "+" poles, for no more than 5 seconds,disconnect the wires and immediatly put the battery in question in the charger. If it starts charging, every thing if fine. If not, try the process again, you might wanna recheck the voltage if it rises.
Please be aware, that over discharging Li-Ion batteries, will lead to damage of the Li-Ion cells, which results in loss in capacity, therefore, if you are not to use your Li-Ion tools for a while, make sure the batteries are fully charged.
Hope you guys could have sucess with the above
Best regards
Soeren
Some solutions for Makita battery issues. Your milage WILL vary.
If you have
been a bad boy and managed to short the battery by using it for non-proscribed
purposes, or it just shorted for some other reason (like stalling the drill repeatedly) the fusible link will blow (kind of like a fuse)
To fix it,
open up the battery (use a Torx 10 security bit, or a small flathead in a
pinch) On the battery connection nearest the spring-loaded white catch there is
a small bridge of metal with a hole in the center. If this is melted you can
solder it back together by sanding the two pieces and putting a glob of solder
on them. This will void your warranty (duh!) and remove the battery's fuse
protection, but it WILL work again.
If the link
is intact and nothing else is obviously wrong, you almost certainly have a bad
cell. I recommend pulling out the bad cell ( it will be the one that does not
read between 2.5 - 4 vdc) and replacing it with one from another dud battery-
this requires some fudging and re-soldering.
Or do what I
did, pull the cell, toss the electronics and the short pink wire, add a
cigarette lighter socket and voila! you have a portable power supply giving
around 14 volts. Charge it up by wiring two cigarette lighter male ends
together (check polarity , + to + and - to -) and plug it into your car, but
only while it is running or you will be charging your car battery with it!
Hope that
helps.
Matt Binns
GiantGlobes.com
If your battery reads well below 10-12volts….
Try charging
the battery with a car charger set on low (2 amps max) or a wall transformer
from a phone or some such with a 12vdc output (make sure it is 12vdc not 12vac)
You will need to know which of the charger wires is pos and neg, be careful not
to short the battery as this will blow the fusible link. Connect + to + using
jumper clips or stiff wire jammed into the battery contacts.
Once you get
the battery over 10-12 volts the charger will normally accept the battery.
You can jump
one good battery to the bad to do this, but in all cases watch out that the
wires do not get hot, as this is a BAD sign, often a minute or two will be
enough.
Of course you
may have a dodgy charger, they are not robust at all.
The fans also
****, noisy and sometimes they quit, causing the charger to quit too
Matt Binns
GiantGlobes.com
Look folks, here is the deal.. And a LOT of folks do this (like DELL laptops for one...) The deal is a small printed circuit board inside the battery housing. I took one apart to see if it gave me any clues. I found the chip manufacturer, and I can see the reset line, but aparently that is NOT enough. The chip is designed to remember specifics about the battery, and, I don't believe they would be using MEMORY on the chip UNLESS they were COUNTING the number of charges/discharges and then setting a flag telling the 'smart charger' to no longer supply voltage to restore the Li-ION batteries. I tried wiring around the circuit and the batteries will hod a charge long enough foe me to test it. I would NOT ever rin the batts witout the chip installed, PERIOD. The bats can be had on EBAY for around $50 and if you really do use them a lot consider the BL1830 (bigger but twice the capacity, and the charger is designed to charge the larger batt as well.
Good luck, I love my Makita cordless, I HATE 'smart' batteries...
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I had the same problem. If I knew makita had this issue I would have bought Dewalt instead - Makita is throwing their name away with these "smart" batteries and chargers. anyway this is what I did...... remove top half plastick cover of battery - leave the cct board as it is or throw it in the dustbin - drill 6mm hole at the back of bottom half plastic cover - pull in twinflex cable - solder it to the positive and negative output terminals of the battery PACK (where you get 18 V) - solder other ends of twinflex to nokia (or similar) charging socket - make sure about your positive and nagative (normally inner pin is positive and outer pin is negative) superglue charging socket to back of the battery so it is nice out of the way - buy an universal laptop charger - the one I have can produce 5.5 A between 12 V and 24 V. so now if my battery goes flat I simply take my universal laptop charger - plug it into the wall or car's cigarette lighter socket, let it charge for 25 minutes and the tool is working again. eeeeeeseayyyy!!! I have the sds drill with the jackhammer selection as well as the grinder. I put up my entire electric fence with that sds drill, jack hammered the concrete underneath the electricity box whe I had to pull in a new cable to my house and also fitted a couple of winch anchor point on my garage roof - all with that SDS drill. just a shame Makita screwed up big with their smart batteries - if some asks me what to buy I will rather tell them to buy Dewalt or similar - unless they they modify their makita batteries - then Makita is fine too.
Less than one year since made or bought? 3 year life on lithium ion batteries, regardless of use. seeing as how both 1.5ah batteries are dead, they most likely fell below there minimum discharge point in storage.
I just charged mine with the car charger and they are working fine. Will see how long they hold the charge.
Try a youtube search for the explosion of li-ion cells that have been overcharged, before you remove safety features of the battery and hotwire it! Yes the battery is poor, ditch the tools for another brand!
27,465 views
Usually answered in minutes!
One of my batteries (BL1815) will not charge. Replaced battery once, a couple months later, same problem. Charger flashes red/ green. Other battery charges fine.
Exactly the same
Tried recharging with a pair of 100ohm resistors from a good battery, even up to 17.3 V, it would not take a charge, I think the Battery may have a EPROM chip that tells the charger "NO",
Nearly new Li-ion battery will not charge, no problem with other batteries on the same charger.
I have a Makita 18 v li ion batteries and both will not charge anymore. i thoought it was the charger because they both did the same thing as above at the same time. The new charger did not make a difference. Both batteries will not charge something is wrong with this pix.
Norm
Got four batteries the first two have died after 12/18months respectively, two slightly newer ones still working, red green lights alternating and beeping on charger!
This is common with the Makita BL1815's they die after 50 to 100 charges. Â Good luck sending them back to Makita, I got the run around from both the the Home Depot I bought them at and the Makita Service. Center. Â Great drill when the batteries work, when they work.
I found this really good solution:https://youtu.be/vuGIkkYFt5g
Unfortunately mine would charge and then discharge rapidly. Charge would not hold
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