Refrigerator is leaking/dripping clear water, but the ice maker lines have no leaks and it appears to be coming for the middle of bottom of the box somewhere.

Is the water coming in from the ice maker water line dripping into the unit or from somewhere else?

What I have seen in a thing like this is a simple water valve drip. Some of them drip like a faucet. This causes the cubes to stick together and all kinds of grief. I have your service manual.

LG bottom mount ice box service manual



If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Here is what I think it might be: The water valve has a slow faucet like drip that forms a stalagmite in the fill tube. When the ice maker calls for water the water goes out the backside. OR it might be the line has a hole in or has come off the fill tube in back of the ice box. Solution: replace water valve and blow dry fill spout to get out ice.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

The GE Icemaker has a center bottom plunger that drives the ice cube discharge tray up and down. If that center plunger oring has failed the ice maker will leak in a drip drip drip fashion. If it only leaks once every cube cycle then it is overflowing when filling. This can be corrected 2 ways. One is to turn of the water supply line and disconnet the water line on the back of the unit. Place the hose into a large bowl of some kiind and then have someone open the valve until the flow is full and then reduce that flow about 50 percent. Remember how many turns it took to get that flow and shut off the water supply line. Then reconnect the line and turn on the water the number of turns you counted when shutting off the water. The PROPER way of setting the water flow timing is to frome the front cover of the ice maker and turn the adjustment screw in the DECREASE direction. My suspicions are that the plunger o-ring is leaking. It costs nearly as much to have the service call to replace the o-ring as it does to replace the ice maker. Your choice but I would replace the icemaker if the plunger is leaking. (mid-bottom point of ice maker) Just note that once a leak occurs in the plunger area if the plunger has corroded the new o-ring will wear out rapidly.

Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

Ice Maker
Is the freezer cold enough? Should be close to 10 degrees.
Is there water or ice in the ice mold? If not put water in it and see if it dumps the ice after it’s frozen. If there is ice, lift the cut off arm and let it drop to see if it will start.
If it does dump the ice but don’t refill with water.
Try swapping the wires on the dual water inlet valve. Then try the water dispenser. The water should go to the ice maker. This will tell you weather or not the ice maker valve is working and if the line is clear.

The water inlet valve on the back of unit opens when the ice maker needs water. If the valve doesn't seal good because of sediment or wear it will continue to drip and when the water reaches the ice maker supply tube it will freeze. You can take the water line off the valve and watch to see if it drips.

The dual water valve (solenoid) that open and let the water from the line when the ice maker calls for it, is leaking and needs to be replaced.

hi..
Your water inlet valve on the back where the water supply comes in is probably leaking. disconnect the water line coming out of it and see if you have a slow drip. Try the dispenser to see if it's just drips after use.

For the ice maker problem, Try swapping the wires on the dual water inlet valve. Then try the water dispenser. The water should go to the ice maker. This will tell you weather or not the ice maker valve is working and if the line is clear.If it does, the problem is the ice maker and not the valve and line...

thank u
rate me!!

Your water inlet valve on the back where the water supply comes in is probably leaking. disconnect the water line coming out of it and see if you have a slow drip. Try the dispenser to see if it's just drips after use.

For the ice maker problem, Try swapping the wires on the dual water inlet valve. Then try the water dispenser. The water should go to the ice maker. This will tell you weather or not the ice maker valve is working and if the line is clear.If it does, the problem is the ice maker and not the valve and line.

First we have to determine if the problem is a faulty water valve. Reason: faulty water valve can continue to supply water even after the IM or door dispenser is finished calling for water causing a drip feed freeze up problem, or water overflow condition in the ice maker (IM). Another common cause is unrelated, but caused by a blocked drain line often resulting in thick ice build up on the bottom of the freezer, water dripping onto the floor, or water dripping into the refrigerator (top freezer mount models only) and freezing near the lights or damper ducts after defrost. Fix for this problem is to remove evap panel and clear freezer drain line with hot water or compressed air. If this is not the case, and water is dripping out of IM supply line, remove IM H20 supply line from IM at back of appliance and see if the water seems to drip out, if so, replace the water valve. If water doesn't drip out at all, replace IM, or IM module depending on the model of refrigerator that you have as contacts in the IM are also responsible for calling for H20 supply. You will have no more problems after this.

There is normally a small shutoff valve installed in the water line servicing the ice maker; you might shut off the flow of water until you locate the problem.

Most drip pans can be slid out but it would be wise to lower the level with sponges or similar to avoid any more spillage than you already have.

If the 'knob' is centered it is probably the release knob for the grill, behind which is of course the drip pan.

Before damning the ice maker (although they are among the most unreliable devices known to man), I would pull the fridge out and examine the fitting where the water line is attached.
Any lime buildup or green corrosion around the fitting would imply that the leak is external to the cabinet and the leaked water is only accidentally making it to the drip pan.

If you haven't been getting blocks of ice in the cube storage bin, the shutoff valve is apparently working so you may get lucky locating the source of the leak.