GE top load washer whdsr209g2ww wont enter spin cycle. Motor kit and transmission & brake assy repalced by GE 10/2007. Motor seems to operate during cycle. Water seems to be leaking somewhere. I read about spraying the brake with anti-corrosion spray, but don't know where the brake is, and exactly where to spray. Also, how to access any seals that might be causing the leak.

Hello there:

The first thing to check when your GE washer is not agitating, is the belt. Let me tell you how to check the belt & the clutch with out having to take the washer apart.

The belt: Set the timer in the spin cycle and pull the timer knob to turn the washer on.
If the washer drains the water and then spins the way that it should, this tells you that the motor, belt & clutch are not the reason why your washer won't agitate.
A broken belt could be the reason your washer is not agitating or spinning.

The agitator: After making sure that the belt, motor & clutch are working ok, lets check the agitator.
The agitator uses a plastic agitator coupler that is couple to the transmission shaft by using splines cut in the coupler and on the transmission shaft.
Too much usage or overloading the washer too many times will wear the agitator coupler splines. With out the splines the coupler could not be coupled to the transmission shaft and that could be the cause why your washer is not agitating.

The clutch: A bad clutch could also be the reason the washer won't agitate or spin. Usually when the clutch is bad the washer will be noisy, like when you have bad brakes on your car.

The transmission: The transmission could be the reason your washer is not agitating. A common problem with the transmission is oil leaking right on top of the motor pulley and the belt.
As you can see, there could be different reasons why your GE washer is not agitating. You just need to keep checking each part until you find the problem and replace the part responsible.

perhaps, the upper lock nut that holds the inner tub to the transmission is bad. there are two tabs that get worn and sometimes will not allow tub to spin.

Take the belt off and run the washer to see if the motor will turn without a load.
Newer style GE - long history of transmission/brake issues with these. Best course of action is explained at this link:

http://www.big-boys.com/articles/gernadewash.html

This a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.20992991

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

The brake on these washers is driven by the clutch on top of the transmission.

The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

It also has a troubleshooting guide.


If the washer drains the problem is likely in the transmission.

We had the same problem:

If you lift the lid, put it down again or stopping and starting the cycle knob, and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, or stopping and starting the washer torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.


http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.

it not a belt, there is a $20 plastic and rubber coupling between the motor and the transmission that has broken.  It needs replacing. 

coupling between motor and drive assy broken. take motor loose and you can get it out. Visual check first to see if motor is running when in agitate cycle.

sounds like a broken motor coupling( this machines equivelent to a belt. part number 285753a . mounts directly to the motor shaft and connects to the transmission, order a new one it installs between the motor and transmission,assy

Sounds like the brake liner could be broken. When the machine starts to spin, the motor turns in the opposite direction to the wash cycle and causes the bowl to lift off the brake liner and the bowl then spins freely. Either the riser cam is worn/broken or the brake liner is broken. This is quite involved and you may have to call in a tech.

Sounds like the spin coil/brake solenoid is burnt out or broken. This is a coil situated on the motor plate under the machine with a lever attatched to it. When the machine goes into spin cycle, this solenoid pulls the brake away from the outer drum to allow the drum and agitator to spin together. The shaft that goes into this coil should move in and out freely. If tight, replace spin coil/brake solenoid.

Herman, take a look at number 1 and number 5 on the picture Im attaching. This is where your problem probably exists. As long as you don't have something caught in between the tub and the basket and your drive block is ok, it's either the clutch assy. or the spin tube itself. Remove the agitator, tip the washer way back, or remove the cabinet and remove the 3 bolts holding the transmission. You can do this with the motor attached or with it removed, it's just lighter with the motor removed. The clutch will drop with the trans. The brake assy will be attached to the spin tube. Inspect them all for damage. Catriver, post back.