Does not work

okay James - this is a long shot but I wanted to at least give it a shot. I've copied a bit of text I found from a users forum for Helicon. And is there software to be updated?

The footswitch must be plugged into the unit before you power on.

https://music-group.force.com/musickb/search?name=tch&q=switch-3

God Loves You!
:-)

Since you posted this question nearly 3 weeks ago, I expect you figured it out by now - in which case, please mark thread as "closed".
If you are still trying to figure it out, please reply with the following information:
1. Make and model of mixer
2. What you are using as a signal source (mic, instrument, etc.)
3. Make and model of your speakers (important if they are self-powered, or not)
We'll take it from there - but a couple pictures will answer a lot of questions in regard to gain structure, signal path routing, buss outs, etc.

Whether you are experienced in electronics repair?
if not, try this simply way:
1: Test whether the power amplifier is still working. See figure 1.
Power OFF,adjust the EQ settings as shown in the picture.
Minimize LEVEL.Switch ON Power. Touch pin 3 at the INPUT socket by using a small screwdriver or piece of wire / cable.
Slowly raise the LEVEL,a little bit only (as the clock showed 7-8) until
sound is heard in speaker. If not heard, slowly raise again LEVEL.
If audio input signal is heard,it can simply be taken to mean
that the amplifier is working.
If LEVEL at 9 o'clock position,and the audio is not heard,
the possibility of the amplifier is damaged.
Switch OFF the power. Take it to a repair place.


2: When the Power LED is lit, but no sound,
There are many possible causes, one of which is:
I have been getting 3 times similar cases, and all are caused by
two Rectifier-Diode (either or both.) damage on the power-supply-unit.
Remove/desolder,measure, if damaged replace it with a new one.
See figure 2-3.




Hope it helps. Regards.

...............

Check the burned out LEDS with a 3 volt battery- a computer bios battery works well for these.

If they do not light, which is likely, just replace them with similar sized units. You can even change their color too. Measure the voltage at the LED sodler pads to see if it is more than 3 volts, if it is, add a resistor to drop the voltage and limit current to the replacements. Digikey sells them, and they ship around the world http://www.digikey.com or Mouser, Both are based in the US, I am not sure what Mouser's international shipping is. http://www.mouser.com

If there is no voltage at the LED pads, look for bad solder connections, or burned out resistors. If the few remaining LEDs still operate as they should, the level meter chip "should" be okay.

my guess is two positions at one end work(aka 1 and 2, or 4 and 5)? if yes, then 2 of the pickups are wired wrong. (if 1 and 2 work, which are the forward positions, then the middle and bridge pickup are wired wrong, etc.) the problem is there is a variety of 5way switches that are different. i would guess yours is "import" style. are there 8 lugs in a single row on the back of the switch? if yes, you probably have an import switch. best i can do in text is tell you that the middle two lugs are common. this means one goes to the volume pot, and there is probably a little jumper between the two lugs as well. now there are 3 lugs on either side of those 2 common lugs. one set of 3 will probably run to the tone pot in some fashion or be empty. the other set of 3 lugs is for the pickup lead wires. it sounds like at least one or two of those lugs are empty but shouldnt be, or are wired wrong. i cant tell you colors of your wires without seeing it, but this is how it should be, with the exception that the tone knob will probably be on the bottom 3 lugs somewhere. 1 would be the neck pickup, 2 the middle, and 3 the bridge hope this helps, feel free to post a pic of your wiring, etc

I would SUSPECT that the power connector MAY be loose and when you move the pedal it breaks connection momentarily.causing the pedal to lose track of where it was. This could ALSO be bad solder joint on the board, aften near the power inout connector.

SORRY I DON'T HAVE A SOLUTION BUT I COULD REALLY USE A PICTURE OF THE INSIDE OF THAT UNIT.:( I MADE THE MISTAKE YOU INDICATED YOU DIDN'T WANT TO MAKE IF YOU COULD HELP I'D APPRECIATE IT.

I do NOT believe it is possible to do this to the straight volume with Marshalls. The controls only vary the overdrive features and turning them on and off.

I have read that the problem is in the FX send/return jacks which oxidize if not used much. All you have to do, apparently, is ram a jack plug in and out a bunch of times. This breaks up the oxidation, and allows the amp to work properly again.

I had to repair mine. An arc had occured between circuit traces and a heatsink in the power amp and that took out a half dozen transistors, a switching regulator chip, two power resistors, diodes. The parts are all available BUT you must be very careful to weed out ALL the bad ones.

AFTER repair, put a 150 wat light bulb in series when powering up to avoid damage IF there still is a bad component in the circuit.

After cutting out the damaged board and replacing the parts it is all working again.

I had to trace out some of the circuit to troubleshoot as Behringer won't give out schematics.

The amplifier in this is a class "D" switching type. Be very careful of running the unit if the speakers are not connected.