Question about Amana Refrigerators

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Freezer coil freezes up, refrigerator gets warm. Defrost the coils, works fine and then freezes again in few days. Could it be the defrost control board, t-stat, or heater defrost? Which is more likely to have failed. Is there a test I can perform? Any information you can give me would be great. Neena

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  • 295 Answers

Heaters and defrost timers, and thermal cutouts should be changed at the same time.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720

Posted on Oct 19, 2017

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6ya6ya

6ya staff

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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MARK FISHER

  • 87 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator

Have looked at the schematics for this cabinet and am unsure as to the location of both defrost thermostats as unclear on drawings. The purpose of the defrost thermostat is to overide the heater and end the defrost cycle, once the temperature on the evaporator is high enough (normally around 0'C). If you have two then one will probably control the heaters going off and the other may well control the fan, for coming back on. I.E. once the defrost has ended the second sensor will tell the fan when the coil is cold enough to come on, this prevents heat being pushed into the main area after a defrost cycle. If you feel competent enough then I would bypass the heater thermostat temporarily and see if the heaters kick in. The other thing to check is that you have a resistance across the two ends of the defrost heater. In my experience the heater is the most likely to fail, the sensor sometimes fail and the timers rarely fail. The age of your cabinet would suggest the heaters. Please do not leave the sensor bypassed as it performs an essential role. Hope this helps.

Posted on Sep 05, 2007

Anonymous

  • 126 Answers

SOURCE: Frozen Freezer Coils

all of the above the heater is on the coil you will seethe wires the therm. is on the top of coils timer could be at lower back of refrig.

Posted on Dec 14, 2007

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE GSL22JFPH BS refrigerator, coils icing up

I'm in the process of fixing the same problem on a GSS22JEPDWW right now. There are several parts in the defrost circuit that I can tell:
1) Defrost Heater
2) DefrostThermostat
3) Temp Sensor (Thermistor)
4) Main Control Board
I've replaced the Defrost Heater (remove back panel of freezer section - it's a stainless steel bracket that has a glass bulb in it) and it still doesn't work. The main control card provides power to the heater 4 times every 24 hrs for 25 minutes or so to defrost the evaporator coils. If all items are working, you'll see water in the drip catch at the bottom inside of the freezer compartment. Better yet, pull the refer away from the wall for 24 hrs and check if water is gathering below the plastic drain on the right rear of the refer in the pan. The water drips into a pan and the fan for the condensor coil evaporates it. Go to the www.ge.com website and look in the service section to find the parts diagram for your refer. You can then get a part number to buy the parts you need from a local parts store or the Internet.
I just bought the thermostat a few minutes ago and will try that next. Heater was $37, thermostat was $15. Sensor is about $20 and the control card is $140 (you can find on line for $95). I'm going down that path. If none of this works, it'll be in the dump in a week.
I've learned on-line GE refers are bad news. The control cards can fail repeartedly, althoough mine has worked for over 4 years. But, I won't ever buy another one since refers should last at least 15 years in my book. After $200, it doesn't pay to throw more good money after bad. I'll keep you posted on my results.
TM

Posted on Jun 25, 2008

ryeisenman

Richard Eisenman

  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: cold freezer/warm refrigerator

Same problem with Frigidaire Gallery model#GLRT182SAW5 (dated 2002 on back of case)

Vents were blocked with ice. Vents (from top compartment to lower) located behind light. You can check by poking a chopstick up the (2) holes; be careful not to hit fan blades.

Solution:

- took freezer coil cover off in back; checked that defrost heater element was working (marked and rotated the timer in the hole next to light); checked that fan working. Found ice in the vents and defrost drip area. Got it out with hair dryer.

- cleaned compressor coils in back (check fan is rotating; also tweaked some of the compressor tubing bends to make them more smooth - read somewhere about a manufacturing defect ...); blew out drip tube from defroster while down there.

- Set the freezer control to WARM and the refrig control to COLD (THIS SHOULD IMPROVE AIR FLOW FROM TOP TO BOTTOM).

- Put thermometers in top and bottom. Checked that refrigerator cycles (not running continuously). Checked that cold air is coming down from (2) vents behind light.

OK: so far, so good. Lower compartment is 40 or under. Top is under 18.

CONCLUSION: Suspect marginal design. Had problems with another similar model where defroster ice doesn't drain correctly, pools and refreezes. Leading to blocked vents as well as blocked defroster drain and similar problem including dripping water from top to bottom and warm bottom.

MAYBE KEEPING THE FREEZER CONTROL AT WARM GETS AROUND THE PROBLEM?? ANYWAY, ITS WORKING FOR ME FOR NOW !!

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

Anonymous

  • 108 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer coils freezing, fridge warm

You might want to check and make sure the interior fan is working above the evaporator coils. If the fan isn't working the air won't circulate over the evaporator and it will frost over very quickly, and also cold air won't be pushed into the fridge side.

The fan might turn off when the door is open, hold the door switch shut while you check it.

Posted on Apr 27, 2009

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