Ice maker NO ICE, FILTER IS OK, WATER GOING TO INLET VALVE, BUT NOT COMING OUT THE OTHER END.FREEZER TEMP.OKAY,IS IT THE VALVE OR SOMETHING ELSE. THE FRIDGE IS 3 YEARS OLD.

Is the inlet water valve ok? Does it have a water filter that may be clogged?

Okay, here's a bunch of info in the order I would troubleshoot since the one year warranty expired.

1) The water filter might be clogged. Try just removing it to see if it makes ice. If it does change the water filter.

2) The water inlet valve might (still) be defective. The water inlet valve is an electro-mechanical valve. The coil can show good for continuity and still not let the water thru although you didn't say if it worked when he left. if recently replaced it should be under his warranty.

3) The water pressure in the house might be too low. The water inlet valve which supplies water to the ice maker is designed to work with a minimum of 20 psi of water pressure.

4) The door switch might be defective. When the freezer door is opened the freezer door switch does two things, it turns on the light in the freezer and turns off the ice maker and dispenser. If the door switch fails the dispenser will not turn on. The switch can be checked for continuity with an Ohm meter. If it doesn't have continuity it should be replaced.
5) It could be that the ice maker assembly itself is defective. The freezer temp should be between 0-5 degrees for the ice maker to cycle properly. There are several components in the control module of the ice maker that can fail and most are not sold separately. Also, ice makers have a relatively short lifespan and so it might not be worth fixing. If other, simpler parts like the water inlet valve or shut off arm have been ruled out, and the only thing left is the ice maker itself, replace it as a unit. Not as expensive as you may think...Under $100

6) The icemaker module at the front might also be defective. The module has a motor that cycles the ice ejector arms around to push the ice cubes out when the ice maker thermostat closes. It also has contacts in it for the mold heater and water inlet valve. The motor or contacts of the module can fail. Usually there are test points in the module that a service person can use to determine if there is a problem with it or one of the related ice maker components.

7) The icemaker mold thermostat might be defective. Inside the control module of the ice maker is a thermostat which monitors the temperature of the ice mold (ice tray). Once the mold reaches the proper temperature the ice maker starts a harvest cycle by ejecting the ice cubes and refilling with water. If the mold thermostat is defective the ice maker doesn't advance. The thermostat can be checked for continuity. Replace it as needed.The freezer temp should be between 0-5 degrees for optimum performance.

There are several things that can prevent and icemaker from working.
1- Temp in freezer. If the temp in the freezer is higher than 6 degrees the ice makers thermistat will not call for water.
2- Water inlet valve. If the inlet valve is malfunctioning the silinoid may not be opening. Even if you are getting water through the door.
3- Faulty ice maker. If the internal components of the ice maker are no longer functioning it wont make ice.

To test the inlet valve. In the back of the fridge is and access panel near the bottom remove this panel and look at the inlet valve. now you should see 3 hoses. One is usually copper and runs directly from the house water supply. There will be two other hoses from the inlet. One leads into the fridge for the water in door feature. The other is for the icemaker. Switch the two hoses from the ice maker ( water in door and icemaker) than push the water in door feature and see if the water goes into icemaker. If it does not than replace inlet. If does and temp in freezer is below 6 degrees replace icemaker.

If you need further assistance please comment me back.

There are 3 things that can prevent an ice maker from not working.
1- Temperature of freezzer- Temp must be below 6 degrees on most ice makers.
2- Water inlet valve- Depending on how your ice maker cycles it calls for water for 7.2 seconds. If you have ice and water though the door you have a dual valve and the ice maker selinoid ine the inlet may be bad. Also make sure water is getting to valve. Just because water is coming through the door does not mean water is entering fridge. There is a reservoir in fringe that holds around 3 gallons of water that can still make water come out the door without water entering fridge.
3- Faulty Ice maker- over time the winding and other components can get worn out and fail.

First check the temperature in the freezer.
Next check the inlet valve. To do this you need to remove the hose going from the inlet valve to ice maker and switch with the hose leading to door. Push the actuator in the door to call for water and see if water enters the ice maker. If it does inlet is good. Replace Icemaker. If not replace inlet valve. There may be a problem with the icemaker still but wont know until inlet is fixed.

If you have anymore problems or you need further assistance please feel free to contact

There is a dual acting water valve that feeds the ice maker and door water seperately.
If your power went out - chances are good the solenoid on the icemaker side of the valve has failed - so it will not open the valve on the demand of the icemaker timer.
To find out - you will need to check that there is voltage at the valve.

With a model #, I can help you better.

Thanks!!

The ice maker valve is a dual one. with 2 solenoids. One solenoid operates the water and the other the ice maker. So if the water works that don't mean the ice maker supply is ok. The ice maker itself controls the flow of water. So if the water valve is ok then the ice maker is faulty. I have repair photos HERE

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hello there
Please try these few tips ok?

1. It may be turned off. Check the Ice maker shutoff arm located at the top of the ice bin. Look for the wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If the wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. If so, simply lower the wire.
2. Is there water in the ice cube tray? If not check for water to the water valve. If you have water then it could be either a failed fill valve or ice maker control module is not activating the water valve.
3. Check for pinched water supply line (behind the fridge)
4. Do you have an inline water filter? If so, when was it changed last? To test if it is plugged, check for water both before and after the filter system.
5. Sometimes the water inlet tube that directs water into the ice cube tray freezes over; this can often be thawed out by simply using a hair blow dryer and warming the area (be careful not to overheat the plastics as they can warp or crack). Then adjust the freezer to a slightly warmer setting and make sure water is not constantly dripping from the inlet tube, as it will only freeze over again.
6. If it continues to drip we may need to replace the water control valve.
7. The ice maker head assembly may have broken parts. Look to see if the gears are broken.
8. Check to see if the small plastic arms that rest against the ice rake are broken.
9. If the ice maker head assembly is modular and you've found broken parts,

Switch the conectors going to the inlet valve.  Then open the freezer door, hold the switch to make the freezer think its closed and push the water button.  If water comes out by the ice maker then the valve is good and your ice maker needs to be replaced. If no water comes out the inlet valve needs to be replaced

take the line off of the solinoid valve and check to see if there's a screen in the valve. that could be plugged with debris.

very easy solution!!!chat with me online and ill step you through it save up to $65 (my in-home rate in florida is $75!!!!!!!)