2007 chevy impala ss radio stop working and now car wont start
Assuming the battery is fully charged, the connections from the battery red to starter motor & relay are tight, and black terminal from battery to engine block (or chassis) are tight, and cables &/or terminals are not corroded, and the battery electrolyte levels are not low to expose the battery lead plates, the symptoms you describe sounds like a main fuse panel issue. Some cars have two fuse panels; one beneath the driver or passenger console, another one beneath the hood in engine area. If fuses are OK, then not enough electrons are passing through when you turn the key, meaning something is acting as a resistor to prevent free flow of electrons (loose connections or corroded terminals or cables). When you pop open the caps off the battery, each cell holds 2 volts. If the lead plates are exposed, that cell will hold less than 2 volt. Replenish with distilled water or battery electrolyte (sold at some auto parts store, so call around instead of driving all over town). If you have a battery charger & digital voltage meter, the battery should read 12.6 to 13 volts for fully charge. If below this, touch black probe on voltage meter to negative side of battery, then dip red probe on each of battery cell's electrolyte. Write down the voltage reading of each cell, then hook up the battery charger let charge for half an hour or so until battery shows 12.6 or higher reading after unplugging the charger. With charger unplugged, take digital voltage meter and take 2nd voltage reading of each cell, dipping red probe into electrolyte while black probe touches negative side of battery. Write down voltage reading of each cell. Wait half an hour to 45 minutes, then take a 3rd voltage reading of each cell. If there's a drop in voltage reading on one cell from the 2nd time, this cell is not holding a charge and its draining power from the adjacent cells, resulting in eventually leaving a dead battery after it had been parked over the weekend. Replace the battery. This method of diagnosis to check battery condition is more accurate than a load test. I've seen batteries that will pass a load test, yet battery goes dead after the car (or semi truck or bus) had been parked for 2 or 3 days because the faulty cell had drained power from the adjacent cells next to it. In semi trucks & buses, when the battery goes dead, it continues to drain the power from other batteries that are hooked in parallel or series to other batteries.
Ah, I'm not sure this is accurate. The batteries (I have 2) still show 10.3 volts across the + & - terminals. It seems strange for 2 batteries to die at the same time. Thanks for your input, though.
I have two batteries and one had a bit of 'juice' in it when I used it to use a masonry bit to put a 3/16" hole into a brick wall with a masonry bit. It died out quickly so I swapped it out for the other batterie that was in the charger and 'completely' charged.
It didn't work at all. The red 'charging' light does not go with either of the two batteries locked in the charger. Outlet is good as it powers anything else plugged into it.
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