Focuser broken the focuser knob turns but nothing happens the stage moves up and down slightly manually but not the whole way there are little silver balls visible in bottom of unit

Hi Faye , we will probably need more info

Does the stage move freely on its own without the course focus knobs

Can you move the stage up and down with either of the course focus knobs

Instrument details / picture would help .

The Celestron manual for this scope has nothing to say, but on the underside of the focuser assembly, between the 2 focus knobs, you may see 2 screws.
They might be thumbscrews or some other screwhead type. One is the adjustment for the focuser internal clearance, or looseness, and the other is a focus travel lock.
If present, try backing both off 1/2 turn from tightness, and then experiment to see which is which. The focus lock will have no effect until tight, when the focuser will cease moving, as is now. The other screw will gradually remove looseness and rattle from the focuser until it just moves smoothly, with no back and forth loose feeling at the knob.
If neither of these screws is visible you will have to take it to a binocular and telescope shop, where they should not charge much.

The small "pin" which moves the mirror inside may have either come loose or broken. You will need to remove the focuser to find out.

Visit the Mighty ETX web site for instructions on how to do this.

http://www.weasner.com/etx/menu.html

The knob you are talking about is called the x-axis control knob. It does not directly affect the focus. What affects the focus is the slight manipulation of the stage and or slide while you are adjusting the x-axis control knob. It only takes the slightest pressure to throw the focus off very far. Theoretically you could completely remove the specimen holder and move the slide around with your fingers.
The specimen holder may need to be replaced but without further more detailed knowledge of the mechanical problem I cannot instruct further.

There is a tension adjustment for this. It is located on the coarse focus knob which is on the same side as the switch. It looks like a chrome ring with about 3 holes in it. A strange looking tool should have come with the scope. It is designed to fit into these holes and allow you to adjust the tension on the coarse focus knob. You need to tighten it just a little bit. Not too much or you will have trouble operating the coarse focus knobs smoothly.

First, a scope of this grade will not be completely in focus as you move from one magnification to the next. But it should be close enough that you do not loose your point of interest.
Be sure you are not pressing down on the stage specimen platform as you change magnifications. It is very sensitive to pressure. Also, be sure that the coarse focus tension is tight enough that the platform is not drifting down imperceptibly as switch magnifications. Look through the scope and watch if the image goes out of focus while you are watching it. If so, you have what is called "stage drift". This is corrected by tightening the tension on the coarse focus knob.
The tension adjustment is on the coase focus shaft. It looks like a chrome ring with about 3 holes in it. There should have been a strange looking tool that came with your scope. It is used to adjust the tension. If your specimen is "drifting" out of focus, simply tighten the tension ring a little bit at a time until the specimen no longer goes out of focus. Do not get it so tight that it is not easy to operate the coarse focus knob.

Hi,
I am the new owner of a used Asko Cylinda 10504.
The last owner briefly demonstrated the washer starting a wash cycle and entering the agitation cycle of the wash before stopping and pumping the water out and spinning in a final end cycle. I bought it. I had the machine installed turned it on and cannot get it to go through the wash cycle. After starting at #1 it goes through a perpetual spin cycle of sorts--water and soap soaking the drum and laundry but not enough water to fill up half way or less. It stops at number 4 on the program knob sits on a red dot (next to the #4) and does nothing. I then manually move it to the next cycle and it repeats the spin cycle again until I have advanced the program to the end. No wash cycle no rinse cycle. Nothing. When it advances to the red dot I wait for at least 5 minutes before manually advancing the knob. The instructions say that I should get the water pumped out by turning the program knob to #7 or #9 but in both cases it just spins and does no empty or finish in the end spin cycle of several (9?) minutes. Nothing but banging and spinning. The water seems to get into the drum as well as the detergent but nothing else is happening.
No mater where I start the program it spins and sloshes soapy water, pumping almost nothing out.
Any suggestions short of putting it on the curb or paying a kings ransom to fly a tech out to look at it?

MY GUESS.
It seems that it is repeating the same brief cycle over and over. During the move to my house the electronics re set(??!?!?) and now need to be set to the normal mode after being re connected?
Can you help?
Blessings,
Douglas

Try holding the Right knob so it does not move, whilst firmly moving the Left knob towards you (clockwise), this is the adjusting method used on Zeiss Jena 1960's High End microscopes, e.g Eduaval & Ergaval.
Good luck,
Alan Mowle

sir,
Diffrent company having their own system for microscope arm balacing.

Tell me which one microscope you have.

Auxillary arm or microscpe body sloly come down ward.

tell me problem is consult with which part..

INDRAVIJAY