Model # 11061082000 electric dryer....elite el54
time sticks on 54 minutes flashing will start drying then jumps down to 24 minuties select cycle stuck on cotton towels setting....auto temp on high will run through a cycle and dry clothes but the minutes less time will not let you adjust the minutes....
You can't get any parts for this dryer the computer board is no longer available,must be old technology replace it.
are you saying you have it on auto more or less and it does dry the clothes,it might jump down like that because the board uses the sensor under the lint filter to sense how wet the clothes are,if you run it with no clothes it might start say at 60 minutes after running for a while it will sense that nothing wet is hitting the sensor and it will rapid advance to maybe 5 minutes and then shut off so if it is drying your clothes use it like that because you can't buy that board anymore so if it isn't drying good you'll have to replace the dryer,also if the vent line is blocked and the duct that the lint filter slides down into is clogged with lint that can affect the way the board is working but if it's the board you can't get it.
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SOURCE: kenmore elite electric dryer 11084832200
If the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following components could be bad:
Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat
All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.
If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry clothes properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced.
Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door:
a. Remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side.
b. On models with no lower kick panel, lift the dryer top and remove the screws that hold the front panel in place.
c. The Kenmore Elite & Whirlpool Duet have a couple of screws under the bottom edge of the panel under the door that you need to remove.
NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:
Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two RED leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.
Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set.
I hope this information is helpful to you. Post back with comments if you have any further questions.
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Heavy Duty Dryer 11063012101 Takes Forever to Dry
I think your vent has lint in the line between the wall and the outside of your house not allowing the moisture to get out
FIX
1 when the dryer is running go outside and observe the vent to see if hot air is coming out
2 Turn dryer off, disconnect electric from wall
3 pull dryer out from wall
4 take a nut driver or screw and remove the clamp that attaches the flex vent pipe to the wall
4 Also remove the flex pipe from the dryer
5 Inspect inside vent connection inside dryer for any trapped lint
6 inspect inside flex line for any lint
7 Look inside wall vent for lint you can also reach in with your hand to feel for lint
8 If you have a leaf blower or can borrow one(electric is best) from your neighbor put the snout of the blower into the vent going into the wall seal the area between the snout and the vent pipe at the wall ( i use duct tape you can use wash clothes rags etc
9 start blower and blow any lint in the line out through outside THIS WILL CLEAR THE LINT
10 Reattach the flex to the wall vent and dryer , plug in. run a load and you should be back in business
Good Luck
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite HE3 Dryer clothes not dry after cycle
it sounds like a clog in vent.if yours vents up thru roof you may need to have a chimney sweep come out and sweep vent.check and make sure the vent hose is net kinked or full of lint.
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Turning Off before clothes are dry...
Repair of
a Kenmore Electric Dryer Model 110.62942100
Dryer not heating
I just spent several hours
repairing my electric clothes dryer, and wanted to share my experience with
others that may wish to do a similar repair. Some of my time was spent reading online postings similar to
this one. The majority of my time
was spent driving a few times to the Sears Parts Outlet, until I finally got
all of the right parts. I could
have saved myself a lot of time and effort by doing some simple testing up
front. And these tests are real
simple, which I will explain below.
I wish I knew then what I know now about the repair and troubleshooting
steps. It was actually quite easy.
First, the Owner’s Manual is
vague about the repair. Under
troubleshooting, there is the category of “Not Drying Satisfactorily” with a
possible cause that “One fuse is blown or circuit breaker is tripped. The dryer will appear to operate, but
you will not get any heat.” The
solution says “Replace fuse or reset breaker”. In my case, the circuit breaker was obviously not tripped
since the blower motor and controls were still working on the dryer. With that, it felt like the Thermal Fuse
3390719 was the culprit.
Start by unplugging the
dryer. Then, the Toe Panel at the
front bottom of the dryer comes off easily by inserting a flat head screwdriver
along the top edge of the panel, about 4” from the left and the right
sides. Pull forward as the
screwdriver presses on the retaining clips. The panel is supported by two clips at the bottom, and will
then just lift off.
What I found when the toe
panel was removed was several years of lint, dust, and animal hair. A surprising amount all over. Having seen this, I suggest that part
of Spring cleaning is to remove the toe panel and vacuum the inside of a dryer. Next, to reach the thermal fuse easier,
remove the black metal lint duct assembly. Start by removing the lint screen from inside the
dryer. Then, remove the two ¼”
sheet metal screws on the left and the right of the duct. Now, the only thing holding the lint
duct in place is a metal clip at the bottom left, which is pinched in place to
the dryer frame. I used a flat
head screwdriver to pop it off.
The lint duct assembly can now be removed. Here also, I was surprised at how much lint had built up
inside the duct. Clean it out
thoroughly. Any build up can
restrict air flow and waste energy, or be a direct cause to the No Heat
problems of the dryer due to poor air flow and heat build up.
With the lint duct out of the
way, the thermal fuse is accessible on the top right of the blower housing, as
well as the Thermistor 3976615 on its right. What I should have done right here is take the blue wires
off of the thermal fuse connectors, and tested it in place for continuity with
the fuse still in place. Clean off any dust built up on the inner face of the fuse itself. A basic tester sounded a beep when I touched both connectors, which
indicates continuity – or that it is still a good fuse. Install new fuse
if needed, and reconnect the wires.
I would do a little more
testing first prior to attempting to turn the dryer back on. After all, if the fuse blew, there was
a reason. There may still be other
things to consider, and you don’t want to risk blowing a brand new fuse.
At this point, I firmly
recommend removing the Heater Box and Wire Heater Element assembly. I say this because it actually becomes
easier to clean out burnt lint as well as test a few more things. There was enough lint all around and
inside this and in the back of the assembly that could have caused overheating
due to poor sensor readings.
Start by removing the heat
plate at the front. Then, disconnect
the six wires from the three devices:
heater element, Thermal Cut-Off 3977394 and the Thermostat 3390291. I wrote down the color sequence of the
wires to make certain to put them back on the same way. Next, remove the two screws at the
bottom of the mounting plate that holds the assembly in place. The heat assembly should now wiggle
around some, and be connected at the back of the dryer. There are no screws at the back – all
you need to do is rotate the heater assembly counter clockwise about a quarter
turn, and it should come out. The
entire heater assembly can now be removed from the dryer.
With the Greenlee, I tested
for continuity on all three devices: Heater Element, Thermal Cut-Off, and the Thermostat.
All three should return an audible beep from the tester, indicating
continuity exists. In my case,
only the Heater Element was bad and actually had a break in it from
overheating. One screw holds the heater element in
the housing, so it is easily removed.
I had to press on the housing a little to unbind the sides of the heater
element, and then it slid right out.
The housing can now be cleaned out. Assuming the thermal cut-off and the thermostat tested fine
for continuity, all I would do is reach inside the heater housing and clean off
the lint and dust build up on these devices, since they appear to be
working. Install the new heater
element.
While I had everything apart,
I cleaned out the flexible duct in the back, vacuumed everywhere inside and
out, and even used compressed air to clean out any remaining lint and dust that
I could. Reassemble the heater box
into the dryer in reverse order.
Make sure all of the wires are properly reconnected to all of the
devices. Make sure everything is
screwed back together properly.
Now, reassemble the lint duct by attaching the clip to the dryer and
setting the duct in place, and then screwing the two screws back in place. Plug the dryer in and turn it on. If all went well, the
heater element should glow orange and there should be heat
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