Just the other day when I loaded and filled it, it agitates, but then I hear a slight screech or hum with a slight burning smell(like rubber, maybe?), both which got worse the longer I left it agitating. I also noticed the water will not re-circulate through the filter either. Then the washer will not drain. Pump problem? Clog? Belt? Motor? Thanks! (note: those who just choose to say "too old, not worth fixing", need not reply)
Washer will not drain:
Thedrainwaterpumpis the main part in your washing machine that pumps out the water. If this is defective or has failed in any way, this will be the reason why your washer will not drain the water. Before you order a new drain pump, make sure tocheck the pump to be sure a small object like clothing or similar has not lodged itself insideof it causing the NO DRAIN issueand even a no spin issue?. If the drain pump is not clogged, you can test it with amultimeterand remove and replace if needed.Read more: http://removeandreplace.com/2014/10/30/fix-washing-machine-that-wont-drain-washer-not-draining-water/#ixzz3X2LbXMWJ
The washing machinedrain hoseis where the water flows through to get the water out.If this drain hose is blocked, kinked, bent, or clogged, the washer will NOT be able to remove the waterfrom the tub. Check the drain hose to be sure it allows the water to flow freely. You can take the drain hose off and run water through it in your sink to be sure it is not blocked. If there is water STILL in the washer when you remove the drain hose, grab a bucket as the water will exit from where you disconnected it
Thewater pump belt(to drain out the water) may have broke or become frayed or loose.If this belt breaks then it is unable to drain and remove the water from your washer. Inspect the belt to see if this is causing theNO DRAINissue and remove and replace if needed.If thelid switchis not working as required it will cause your washer to not drain (and many other problems).This may be unlikely as a bad lid switch will usually cause your washer to alsonot agitate or spin.However on some models this can vary. The best thing to do if you have a suspected bad lid switch is to test it. It can fail electrically and or mechanically. If mechanical failure is the issue, you should be able to see if it is cracked, broken, or not in place to make contact with the lid. To test it electrically, use amultimeterset on Ohms and test it for continuityMy advice is freecuzGod is good!
WASHER WILL NOT RINSE:
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is thewater valvewill stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle.
This is because when you selected your water temperature, youmay haveselected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing.
Theitem to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going tourwater inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board. You can also do a live volt test to see if it is getting the full 120 current, but be sure to unplug unit before testing as this is a live test.
Another test u can do to check thewaterinletvalve,first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed.
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If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing.
If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing.
TIMER
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs,but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing.
Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle
By the way my advice is freecuzGod is good!
It doesn't agitate
If your washer doesn't agitate, check these:
Lid switch
Motor coupler
Belts
Clutch
Drive motor
Drive pulleys
Transmission
Agitator
Lid switch
If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
Motor coupler
Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it.
Belts
Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
Clutch
If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
Drive motor
Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
Drive pulleys
The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.
Transmission
The transmission could have either of these problems:
If you suspect a transmission problem, you may have to call a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
Agitator
The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline.
SOURCE: Kenmore series 70 washer will only fill with water.
I recently had this problem. It was found that the main drive belt broke and the washer would fill but not spin, agitate or drain. I replaced the belt and everything worked again. A defective or disconnected cover switch would also cause the same problem.
SOURCE: model 22748 kenmore 70 series washer. fills but
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.92274800&pathTaken=partSearch
and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
It is also likely the source of the burning smell.
(Sears price $18.86 but available from most appliance repair shops)
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
SOURCE: Kenmore 70 series washer making humming sound and won't agitate
The following advice is for replacing the “Agitator Dogs” on Kenmore and Whirlpool TOP LOADER style washing machines. This simple repair can save you a fortune in repair costs as the replacement parts are very inexpensive at a cost of less than $10. The replacement kit part number is 80040. You can order on line at various appliance parts websites, or use this part number and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer.
What are “Agitator Dogs”? These are small plastic pieces (usually 4) that are located under the agitator center cap that grip the agitator and turn it during the wash cycle. They can (and do) wear out dependent upon the use of the washer. If you are in the habit of doing large load sizes frequently, or wash large items such blankets or afghans, this can wear the teeth off and reduce the life of the agitator dogs.
SYMPTOMS REQURING REPLACEMENT: The agitator fails to turn during the wash cycle, or will not turn with a heavy load. The timer will run normally through all cycles, and you will be able to hear the gearcase (transmission) engage and run. The washer will also drain normally. The only indication that something is wrong will be the agitator slipping or not turning at all. The result will be clothes that do not wash properly and will sit on the bottom of the wash tub.
To replace the Agitator Dogs, follow these steps:
1.Remove the agitator center cap by either pulling straight up or gently placing a flat blade screwdriver into a slot located in the cap.
2.If the agitator is equipped with an inner cap with a handle, remove this as well by pulling straight up.
3.Remove the center bolt of the agitator. You will have either a 7/16” hex bolt or a recessed square plastic nut. If you have the square recessed type, use a 3/8” to ½” ratchet adapter to remove.
4.Remove the agitator by grasping the bottom flange and carefully pulling straight up. Try to keep all the parts assembled while doing this, so do not pull too hard. This will make this repair much easier.
5.Place your hand over the top of the agitator and separate the upper portion of the agitator from the lower portion and turn the top half over in your hand. The agitator dog assembly will come out in your hand.
6.With the agitator dog assembly in your hand, lay the rest of the agitator aside. Pay careful attention to how the dogs are installed. Remove the worn dogs and reinstall new ones. It’s that simple.
7.With all the dogs replaced and the assembly still in your hand, place the upper part of the agitator over the top of it, upside down, ensuring the inner assembly tabs align correctly.
8.Now keep your hand over the agitator top to hold all the pieces together and turn the entire assembly over (upright position).
9.Carefully align and reinsert the upper portion of the agitator to the lower portion. Again, making sure the two pieces align correctly.
10.Place the entire agitator assembly back on the gearcase shaft and reinstall center nut. NOTE: DO NOT over tighten the nut, or the agitator will not spin correctly. Just make the nut snug. Reinstall center cap and inner cap (if equipped).
These instructions should give you the basics on how to perform this repair. Since there are various agitator types in use by Whirlpool and Kenmore, assembly can vary.
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