What is ballast make and part number?
Not sure if the first response went through. The ballast is a Pony brand NOY-120-232-LT8. Thanks
NPY - not NOY!
Ballast spec allows only the following lamps
2 of (select 1)
F32T8
F25T12
F30T12
F34T12
F40T12
Or following combinations
F32T8 + F17T8
F32T8 + F25T8
I put the original bulbs back in and the problem persists: one or two light up for 2 seconds. I thought the new ballast would solve the problem. Same results with either 17w or 15w.
Per spec the F17T8 is to be paired with a F32T8. Seems and odd requirement. It further requires case to be grounded which I expect is merely for emissions.
If your fixture is horizontal over top then likely you need a 17 and a 32.
If the fixture flanks the left an right side of the mirror then this makes no sense and possibly it's the wrong ballast.
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SOURCE: Power transformer broke
Contact Michael Business Machines for your local dealer 1-800-223-2508
Good luck, Tom
SOURCE: Find locate of lighting ballast in 3 door BevAir cooler
Sometimes they are in the overheade space above the cooler .. if they were inside then they would have to be HO ballasts because of the temperature .. sometimes they are in the moulding strip under the lamp itself.
SOURCE: We have an existing wall mounted occupancy sensor
This is not a surprise. Many wall-mounted devices such as occupancy sensors and dimmers operate by leaking a little bit of power through the light fixtures. In the world of incandescent, this was rarely a problem - that little bit of current wasn't enough to excite the bulb. But now that we're living in a world of low-wattage lamp types, that little bit of current is now enough power to excite the lamp and cause what you're seeing. The added detriment is that little bit of pulsing that you see in the CFL can actually wear it out pretty quickly.
The short-term solution is to use the older-style, incandescent lamps.
Another short-term solution would be to attempt using another manufacturer's CFL or try an LED lamp - that's by no stretch a guarantee, you'd be rolling the dice with each lamp choice you made. The higher wattage the lamps, the less likely you'll see an issue.
There are two long-term solutions:
1) Add another lamp - the more lamps the control sees, the less leakage current that goes through each lamp. Several people have solved this by adding a 'dummy' incandescent load (like a 15W or 25W lamp) somewhere in the lighting circuit to take the brunt of the leakage.
2) Change the wall-sensor. Lutron makes one (MS-OPS6M-DV-WH) that has extremely low leakage current and may solve the problem. But the best way to guarantee it won't be an issue is to use a wall-sensor that connects to the neutral wire in the wallbox. Those devices take that leakage current and dump it out the neural wire rather than run in through the light fixture. Lutron makes one of those as well (MS-OPS5AM-WH)
SOURCE: I installed a Decora white
Sounds like a problem with the fixture, not the switch. I'd say replace the ballast, or just replace the whole fixture.
SOURCE: The acrylic diffuser on the fluorescent fixture in
I recommend you buy a complete new fixture. If you can still find the same model, just install the lens and you are done $100 to $150. If you can't find the exact one, a lithonia lite UFC looks close. They are not difficult to install if you know how to turn off your circuit breaker and turn a screw driver. Price again, $100 to. $ $150 at a big box store. If you order it from a specialty lighting store, you might be able to talk them into free installation since you are paying a premium price. Basically, it will cost the lighting manufacturer the same to produce and ship a new lessor a complete fixture. You may as well save yourself the headache and play the same game as the manufacturer - just buy a whole new unit. Also buy local, these fixtures are not packaged to survive a fedEx shipment. Good luck -mark
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Should have added that this is a T8 fixture and a self-starting ballast.
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