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If you have (90) 50w lamps = 4500 watts total. Assuming a 120/240 panel, if you put 1/2 on one "side" of the panel and the other 1/2 on the other "side" of the panel, that would be 2250 watts on each half. The generator should be rated *at least* 125% of the load; 4500w x 1.25 = 5625W. Using a 4500W generator on this load will cause it to overheat and shorten its life as it is running at 100% of capacity all the time..
One half of the panel is 120V to neutral, and the other is 120V to neutral - or 240V between both circuit breaker terminals. Ohms law for DC circuits and purely resistive AC circuits says Volts x Amps = Watts; or Watts / Volts = Amps. So, 2250W / 120V = 18.75A on each pole of a 2 pole circuit breaker that feeds the sub panel. A #12 copper wire is rated for 20 amps; but as per National Electrical Code - must be de-rated to 80% of rating which means it is good up to 16 amps maximum. A #10 copper wire is rated for 30 amps, but it too must be derated to 80%, making it good for 24 amps maximum. So, if you are going to feed a sub panel supplying (90) 50watt lamps, you will need to run a #10/3 copper cable from a two pole 30 amp circuit breaker at the generator to a 120/240 volt "main lug only" sub panel rated for at least 30 amps.
Divide your load evenly across the sub panel - (4) 15 amps circuits via (2) two pole 15 amp circuit breakers on each "side" of the panel if you run (2) 14/3 cables out to the lights - or (4) single pole 15 amp circuit breakers if you run (4) 14/2 cables out to the lights. No circuit breaker terminal should have more than 23 lamps that means you have (2) w/ 22 lamps and (2) with 23 lamps. The circuit w/ 23 lamps will draw 23 lamps x 50w = 1150W. 1150W / 120V = 9.6A. The 22 lamp load will be 22 x 50w = 1100W. 110W / 120V = 9.2A. Which is well within the 12A maximum allowed (after derating as required by code) by a #14 copper wire rated for 15A.
You may not need to replace the board if the wire feed failed- most often it is an SCR or pair that has failed. Usually what is used is a 6 amp 600 volt SCR- you can go higher current and voltage for reliability. just make sure the heat sink is adequate or larger and heat transfer compound is used. Digi Key carries the "Teccor" SCR's other brands of the same or higher ratings will work.
The breaker that feeds the panel and the wire are what determines the rating. The panel has to be at least as high as the breaker. It can be more, and no problem.The problem I see is that the wiring is undersized for the 60 amp breaker. You should have #6 wires or change the breaker to a 50 amp. If that is not enough for your load, you must change the wiring. It also depends on the type of wire. THHN will have the largest amperage, but if it is TW, it will be lower. Rule of thumb would be #10-30 amp, #8-40-50 amp, #6-50-60 amp, #4-70-90 amp and #2-95-135 amp. There are other factors, such as derating etc. but if you wanted to increase to 100 amp, I would run #2 thhn. Hope this helps.
yes its fixable,check the main contactor for proper voltage first,power boards are high dollar,so check the price of new one then decide if you want to put that type of money in the unit.
You could install a standard GFCI in line at each component ( heater, pump & timer) or you could install AFCI breakers similar to what are required in many residential codes (provide the same protection at the panel not at the location... http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/afcifac8.PDF
The AFCI breakers will need to match your panel type (siemens, GE or Square-D) and the amperage/configuration.
I would install them at the lowest level (closest to the components) in the system to reduce possibility of fire in the wiring between the components and the afci breaker.
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