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Donna O'Neal-Dorton Posted on Dec 11, 2019
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Where is the element plate thermal fuse - Dryers

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Jorgie the appliance guy

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  • Dryers Master 5,639 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 17, 2021
Jorgie  the appliance guy
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Anonymous

  • 6784 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 20, 2009

SOURCE: heating element is not getting hot. do I need a

There are only a few brands, that are equipped with a thermal fuse. If your brand is equipped with a thermal fuse, it will be mounted on the back side of the main control sector. The control sector can be a timer module, or a control board assembly. In most cases, if the element is not functioning, it will be the fault of a failed element. Use the procedure below to inspect the element for its operational value.

First, open the door and look into the tub and locate the heating element (if it is covered, remove the lower dish rack and cover). The heating element has two terminals which extend through the bottom of the tub, note the general location where they go through.

To access the heating element's wiring, remove the lower panel located beneath the door. The panel is usually held in place with two screws either above or below the panel. It may be necessary to first open the door to the dishwasher to reach the screws over the panel, then close the door to remove the panel.

Look into the lower access area and locate where the terminals come through the tub. Each terminal has a wire connected to it. Label the wires and the terminals so that they can be properly reconnected. Pull the wire off of each terminal; they are connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers. Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. Test the resistance of the heating element using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading will be somewhere between infinity and zero. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and model. If the indicator does not move (infinite resistance) or moves to the other extreme of the scale (zero resistance) then the element is damaged and should be replaced.

NOTE_ If the element passes the test, the likely culprit will be a failed control sector.

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Anonymous

  • 88 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 28, 2011

SOURCE: kenmore dryer model # 110-60212990 heater element

Hello
Check high limit thermostat continuity. If ok ,Check for voltage at thermostat side of the heater element.If voltage present timer ok.Most likely centifugal switch at motor.Motor has to be running for element to work.

It's all fixable!

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0helpful
1answer

Admiral dryer ADE 7000 AYW will not start. Timer will work, but that is all. I think it could be the limit switch, but am not sure. Then was told it could be the thermo fuse. Could you please offer...

Hello,

It very likely is going to be the thermal fuse that is a very common failure when the dryer will not start. To open it up to check the thermal fuse,the top pops up..to pop up the top use a putty knife and place it between the top and the top of the front panel at the corners and depress a clip on each corner that holds the top to the front panel.
Once the top is up the thermal fuse can be found on the right side of the housing where the heat element goes...that housing where the element is mouted to the rear of the plate that supports the rear of the drum at the top,the thermal fuse will be on the right side of the heater housing about 3-4 inches down on that housing..if memory serves me their is 2 white wires connected to the thermal fuse and to check it disconnect those wires and check the thermal fuse for continuity with zero ohms resistiance...if it has a open circuit its will be bad

The part number for that thermal fuse is LA-1053 it also comes with the high limit t-stat which you will see on top of the heat element and it to should be replaced when replacing the thermal fuse

GENE
Sep 24, 2011 • Dryers
0helpful
1answer

I tried to use my drier and I have nothing. No breaker blown, no sound from the drier indicating anything and no clue. It is a Crosley dryer model CDE6000W electric. Some forums seem to suggest the...

Hello John,

To open it up to check the thermal fuse,the top pops up..to pop up the top use a putty knife and place it between the top and the top of the front panel at the corners and depress a clip on each corner that holds the top to the front panel.
Once the top is up the thermal fuse can be found on the right side of the housing where the heat element goes...that housing where the element is mouted to the rear of the plate that supports the rear of the drum at the top,the thermal fuse will be on the right side of the heater housing about 3-4 inches down on that housing..if memory serves me their is 2 white wires connected to the thermal fuse and to check it disconnect those wires and check the thermal fuse for continuity with zero ohms resistiance...if it has a open circuit its will be bad

The part number for that thermal fuse is LA-1053 it also comes with the high limit t-stat which you will see on top of the heat element and it to should be replaced when replacing the thermal fuse


GENE
1helpful
1answer

My iron just stopped heating What can I do

You need to check the following for circuit contintinuity:-
The plug and wall socket
The leads, both the live and the neutral
The temperature selector (Thermostat)
The thermal fuses
The element

To do this testing you will have to strip the iron and get to the wire ends, the thermal fuses and the element terminals. (My guess is that it is the thermal fuses. They are little metal tubes wires attached and are usually insulated in white fibre glass tubing and attached to the element plate).
0helpful
1answer

Used this machine 5 times and it now has no power, just dead!

If fuse in plug ok, Then the week spot is the wiring, Bear in mind the elements are in the top and bottom sole plate so stress faults can occur in the wiring between these plates. Also sometimes a thermal fuse may have gone, This component is usually hidden somewhere in the wiring.
pete
0helpful
1answer

The dryer is not heating. I don't think it is that old for the element to be out. Is that the only solution?

No, there are a few things that could be wrong. The element could be out, part of your breaker could have tripped but a common problem is the thermal fuse located on the element may have gone out. There are two fuses located on the element, a high limit and te thermal. The thermal fuse will be the smaller of the two. Its best to have a volt meter and unplug the wires from the fuse and check the fuse for continuity. If you dont have a meter you can tie the two wires together then plug the machine in and start it and see if it heats. Be careful not to let the wirestouch anything metal. (electrical tape works great!) The element and thermal fuse are located behind the back wall on the right if your standing behind it but in some models i the lower left front if the model has a kick plate t hat can be taken off. If your dryer's front is all one piece than its in th back.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

0helpful
1answer

How do I remove the waffle grate plates from my Waring Waffle Pro? Can't find my manual.--Frank Davis

Hi,
Here is how you need to replace or bring out the plates.

Make sure you are unplugged from the wall before doing anything or you will get shocked. You do not need to take the bottom cover off the base. You do not need to take the top plate apart (they super glued one screw in the top plate (lid), you'll strip out the screw head trying to remove it anyhow). All you need to open is the bottom plate, it has 4 screws in it you will see when you open the lid, these screws are not super glued and will come out. 2 on each side in the back, 2 in the center of the front, long screws go in the back, short in the front.

There are 2 white wires, 1 black wire, 1 green wire that run up the neck of the waffle maker to heat the top and bottom heating elements. The 2 white wires are neutral, the green wire is a ground, the black wire is power.

This black wire runs from the electronic control board in the base of the unit, up the neck in the rear, through a thermal fuse, to the bottom element then jumps up to the top element. All you need to take apart is the bottom plate, the part you pour the batter into. It has 4 screws you will see when you open the top plate up, take those out and you are going to find the black wire is covered by a white rubber like tube about 3 inches long. In the center of this rubber insulation there is a metal clip with a single screw. Take that screw out, pull off the metal clip and slide (don't cut) the rubber like insulation back.

You will find the black wire is crimped onto a silver metal bullet looking component. This component is called a "thermal fuse", its designed to fail at 240 degrees C. Its obviously a design flaw and the thermal fuse is under rated for the actual heat within the device. Its also a one shot fuse, so when it blows it kills power on the black wire from going to the top and bottom plates, thus no heat. It is not resettable.

I didn't even cut mine out (Waring is very skimpy with their wire, they don't leave you even a hint of extra wire to work with). I just tightly twisted the bare metal wire on each side of this component like a bread tie leaving the blown fuse in place. Then be sure to slide the rubber like insulation back over all of the bare metal so it is covering the black wire on both sides. If you don't it will short out and blow your house circuit breaker when you turn it on.

This thermal fuse was probably a requirement of the UL Listing. Its over kill, everything in there is metal so if it over heats in that area there is nothing flammable to burn. If a run away temperature occurs the wire itself will melt, short out and trip your house breaker. There are stacks of these units brand new with this same problem anyone reading this is having, the thermal fuse is under rated, the fix is simple

Thank you for contacting Fixya.com
2helpful
1answer

Doesn't pump water through the sytem ...to coffee grounds

it doesnt use a pump. there is a tube around the hot plate where the water boils. the steam rises and then condenses and falls on the grounds.

check the metal plate under the carafe. if it does not get hot then you have a repair job on your hands.

it is most likely the thermal switch.
if not then it is the thermal fuse
or the heating element
3helpful
2answers

Brew station will not turn on. even the clock will not work. The power supply is fine. Is there a fuse in the machine and how do I get to it.

There are 2 thermal fuses in the bottom of the unit, close to the heating element for the pot. Also, there is thermal compound between the plate that the pot sits on and the heating element. The compund on mine dried out in about a year's time, which caused overheating and the fuses to open.

Does anyone know the values of these fuses? I HATE to have bypassed them.
0helpful
1answer

Dryer does not heat ellement is good

If the dryer won't heat and the heating element is good, then check the thermal fuse and the high limit thermostat. The thermal fuse is located just inside the rear of the dryer and is mounted on the exhaust duct. Test it for continuity using a multimeter. A lack of continuity indicates a blown thermal fuse. '
The high limit thermostat is a small round, black device mounted on a metal plate and attached to the internal ductwork with two screws. It can be tested for continuity. It should have none. If it has continuity it is faulty. I am attaching a photo of the thermal fuse and high limit thermostat for reference. Hope this helped and best wishes.

f6b21d8.jpg
Aug 09, 2009 • Dryers
0helpful
1answer

I have bought 3 coffee pots from GE in 2 months all three have not worked now Wal-Mart cannot return our money without the receipt.

If they have failed after working a short while, the thermal fuse used in all drip coffee makers is failing and we have had exactly the same experience with another brand. Our toxic Chinese friends are making crappy thermal fuses along with about everything else. 

Replacing these is impractical since they are in a small metal case, pointed on one end with two coaxial leads permanently attached. Further, they are welded  to wiring under the warming plate to the heating element. The area is too hot for solder and ceramic wire nuts have to be used to replace the fuse and these are tough to find anymore.
Bypassing them is a really bad idea since I know of one case where the thermal switch that causes the machine to cycle failed, the heating element melted through the aluminum plate on the bottom and set fire to a kitchen counter.
With the cost of labor being what it is, hardly any of these drip coffee makers are worth repairing. 
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