It is not cold all the time anymore. I've been turning the moisture control dial off completely for about 15-30 minutes. When I turn it back on to #5, it becomes cool again for a couple of days. I did have some condensation on the inside during the summer
SOURCE: Freezer keeps loosing its temperature and then freezes again
Sounds like a pc board problem. I have come across many units like these (although I don't know the Samsungs!) which have similar symptoms...it would seem like the freezer gets stuck in "defrost" mode and the ice would melt etc.etc.... In most cases replacing the electronics module solved the problem...in hindsight I have figured out that it was moisture on the pc board components that were to blame! So as a first resort I would locate the main electronics board and use a hairdryer to dry out thouroughly (even if it seems dry!) Also check values for temperature sensors....don't know what the specific values for the Samsung NTC's are, but normally they are in the low kOhm's.... Oshie
SOURCE: T.V. TURNING OFF AFTER ABOUT 5 MINUTES.
Go to Samsung.com for solution. There is a switch that just needs to be repositioned behind access door on rear. Fixed my HL-S5086W ok.
SOURCE: Subzero 590: freezer works, refrigerator not cooling
This is a Sub Zero and many technicians do not realize that these units most all run on 2 separate systems. 2 cold controls 2 compressors 2 evaporators. They share a condenser and condenser fan motor. What you are describing is most likely a bad cold control. It is pretty common for these to get some age and go bad. If you are very savvy with repairs yourself then if you access the compressor area and feel that the compressor on the right is cool and the compressor on the left is warm then you know that the ref. compressor has not been running. UNPLUG THE UNIT OR CUT THE BREAKER OFF. Remove the shelving from the fresh food section and the cover to the lights and the panel below the lights and lean the back panel forward to access the cold control. You will see 3 wires to the cold control. The green wire is the ground wire of corse. Unplug the other 2 wires remembering their location on the control unit. Take a jumper wire and jump these 2 wires. If when you power the unit up the right side compressor comes on then you know that your fresh food cold control is bad. Replace fresh food cold control.
SOURCE: Refrigerator/freezer stopped cooling during a heat wave
Good day,
Turning the thermostat to a warmer setting should not have caused the machine to quit cooling. Actually, the engineers give you far less leeway than you might think.
The controls are more in a class of fine tuning, otherwise people would be getting themselves into trouble. The manufacturers simply design the warm and cold parameters in a fairly narrow range.
The best setting is normal. When away, the machine will run far less simply because of no door openings. Opening a door lets in large amounts of air every time it's done, which is where your cost to run it exists.
Two things. One, if the temp in the kitchen exceeded 90 degrees for any length of time, you are operating it beyond it's design range, however two, it sounds as if the thermostat hung up, causing your issue. You may want to have it replaced, but it would be useless to call anyone when it's performing normally.
There is no test on thermostats other than by observing their action when the machine is not operating properly.
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SOURCE: the refrigerator quit getting cold
Hi, Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold //////////////
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heatman101
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