And when the machine is turned off, instead of not being able to manually turn the agitator, it easily spins around. Suggestions on what could be wrong and how to fix it?
There's a part under the agitator that lifts off if you pull up from the bottom on both sides) called a coupler that is attached to the shaft with one bolt. The plastic teeth probably have stripped off from this coupler, causing the agitator to not agitate properly.
I would buy the part on amazon.
Here's the link to the exact part:
shorturl.at/oxDX0
Video to show how:
https://youtu.be/PN4Q-VqyReo
Testimonial: "Thank you! Is there a specific store or website you recommend purchasing the coupler from?"
SOURCE: GE WBXR2060V1WW won't agitate...
There's a part under the agitator(which lifts off if you pull up from the bottom evenly on two sides) called the "Air Bell Coupler" that attaches to a metal toothed motor shaft with one bolt. More than likely the plastic teeth have stripped off from this coupler, preventing it from sitting tightly on the shaft, thus causing the agitator to not "agitate" properly. You can get this from www.partselect.com.
PS1517844
KIT - AGITATOR COUPLING
Cost is $7.15 plus shipping.
Good luck!
SOURCE: washer will not agitate or spin
HI,
you can view this site to have some ideas about your agitator problem.
http://sites.google.com/site/sublimeappliancerepair/washer-will-not-spin/agitator-woes
any further question let me know.
thanks,
SOURCE: GE profile washing machine won't agitate it spins out, drains,
Pull the agitator out and check the drive collar splines.If you have the model I think you have just pull straight up on the agitator. Once removed you will see the drive collar with a 7/16 head bolt,remove it and pull off the collar.First before pulling it off spin it if splines are stripped it will spin freely.
SOURCE: GE washer model WJRR4170E1WW won't spin or agitate
.I am not a repair professional. I am a 78 year old man
who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. So the washer or dryer ID doesn't mean much to me. I came to fixya looking for a schematic for an really old AM/FM radio and found that more than 4,700 people were asking for help with a washer repair. I recently had a washer repair of my own and at that time I found an excellent video which showed me how to take my machine apart. This video made it possible for me to do my own repair. If you are repairing a dryer or a front load washer I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good step by step trouble shooting and repair information on washers and dryers as well as other appliances. If you have a direct drive top load washer and need help taking it apart this video is an early christmas present. I was so impressed with it that when I saw all these people needing help, I wanted to tell them about it. If you look at the back of your washer and the panel is solid (no small inspection plate to remove which would indicate you have a v-belt drive) chances are you have a direct drive and this video is just what you need. You can see it at www.acmehowto.com You will probably still need help in determining what the trouble is and how to fix it. After viewing the video or if you have a v-belt drive rather than a direct drive, I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good
trouble shooting and repair nformation on most
washers and dryers. I think you'll find what you need
there. Don't worry about the timer, they hardly ever
go bad. Good luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my advice on fixya.
SOURCE: Won"t spin or agitate. Makes a loud rattling noise
If this is a Whirlpool manufactured TOP LOADER (such as Roper, Estate, Kenmore, Amana, and Frigidaire), you may have a damaged or broken motor coupling. Whirlpool manufactured top loading washers use a motor coupling between the drive motor and gearcase (transmission) in place of a drive belt. This configuration is known as "direct-drive". The coupling can break through normal wear and tear. Washing frequent loads of heavy items and reduce the life span of the coupler. Common symptoms include the following:
1. No spin or agitation.
2. Washer will fill and empty.
3. Drive motor still runs.
4. Strange rattling, grinding or clicking noise during agitation or spin cycles as the drum sits still.
If your washer is exhibiting these symptoms, then its probably a safe bet that the motor coupling is bad.
The following link explains how to replace one:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574231-replacing_a_motor_coupling
The part number for a replacement motor coupling is inlcuded in the link I provided. Replacements can be purchased at any of the following websites:
searspartsdirect.com
appliancepartspros.com
pcappliancerepair.com
repairclinic.com
All these sites are reputable and offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I have listed also included helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying any parts you may need.
If you have any questions, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim under the lid) and let me know. I hope this helps you.
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Thank you! The link to the part on amazon.com did not show up. I tried to watch the video from YouTube you posted, but my machine is different. It doesn’t have the tall agitator in the middle, it’s circular and is even with the bottom of the metal interior of the washing machine. Looks like this:https://www.reliableparts.com/thumbnail/...
Thanks!
Looks like the one you need is called a drive hub assembly. You pop the cap off and there's a bolt underneath. Should be straight forward.
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