Question about Ovens
First, make sure that the control pad lock (child lock) isn't enabled. This could prevent any of the following steps from working. You can try unplugging the oven (or turn it off at the circuit breaker) for several minutes (5-10). After returning power to the unit, press the key pad button for Clear/Off. This often resets the electronic control. A similar option is to start another self-cleaning cycle. After 1-2 minutes, when you hear the oven start the heating cycle, press Clear/Off. Sometimes if you wait for up to 2 hours after running a short (1-2 hour) cleaning cycle, the door will unlock.
If these steps don't work, then the thermostat is not recognizing that the oven has cooled down to a safe temperature or the door lock mechanism is damaged. Trying to force the door open will probably damage additional parts of the oven. Turn off the oven before starting to attempt to access the lock mechanism. You can try accessing the lock mechanism from the back or by using a bent wire (like a section of coat hanger). Slide the wire between the door and the oven at the top. Then try to pull the locking rod to the open position.
You'll need to either schedule a service call or pinpoint the failure yourself. Check the continuity across the oven temperature sensor, the over temperature limit sensor and the door lock mechanism. Make sure that the oven is cool and unplugged to start. For the door lock, you need to set the oven to the self-clean cycle to obtain a measurement. Check the wiring between these points and the control board if the readings are close to the expected value for your model. For most ovens, the door lock switch test should give a value close to zero. If replacing the temperature sensor or the door lock mechanism doesn't work and the wiring is undamaged, then the control board may need to be replaced. Replace the faulty parts.
I hope this helps. Please add comment with the model number if you need a parts list or diagram for your oven.
Posted on Nov 03, 2019
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The switch inside the door lock mechanism is stuck down making the unit think it is still locked. the switched is located next to the hook that locks your door.
Posted on Oct 31, 2007
Same problems. When I removed the lock operating arm nothing happened. Motor is not operating. I've temporarily kluged it by tying the "unlock" (upper) switch circuit together and disconnecting one side of the power to the "locked" (lower) switch. At least we'll have an oven to use, but I'll have to come back and remove the lock motor assembly to find out what's really wrong.
BTW, if some knows those keyed-in service codes they could be useful.
Posted on Oct 28, 2008
Try throwing the electrical breaker off and then on to see if it will reset. If not you could put it through another cycle to see if its a jammed armature. However either the door lock motor armature is jammed or the motor is the problem or the solid state did not recognize the cycle was over. If you open the breakers and remove the covers to access the mounting screws you can work the unit out of the wall. Be sure to place some heavy towel or card board on the ground to keep from damaging the floor. Watch placement of your hands and depending on your fittness level you may need a hand pulling and replacing the unit. Test the electrical supply to ensure that its not energized. Then try disengaging the lock armature. IF YOU OPT TO REMOVE THE LOCK THEN THE UNIT SHOULD NOT BE USED IN THE CLEANING CYCLE, EVEN THOUGH THE UNIT SHOULD NOT FUNCTION WITH THE LOCK DISENGAGED, YOU NEVER KNOW ABOUT ELECTRONICS AND IF IT RAN IN THE CLEANING CYCLE SOMEOEN COULD OPEN IT AND GET BADLY BURNED. SO DONT DO IT. You should be able to order the parts needed on line at this website. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?intcmp=xsite_Sears Best o Luck :?) DRRXR
Posted on Feb 15, 2009
Turns out that the latch is attached to a plastic piece (made by the manufacturer) and the spring melted! To boot, the fuse in the back which aids in heating the oven went out also. Repair man said this was typical after several uses in cleaning cycle. He recommended using a gentle steel wool pad with soap built in to gently remove backed on food instead of using cleaning cycle. It is just too hot for too long, and there seems to be a domino effect with things that will go wrong. Nothing like the old fashioned way and a little elbow grease!
Posted on Mar 20, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 11, 2017 | GE Ovens
Mar 29, 2015 | Ovens
Apr 06, 2010 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...
Nov 01, 2009 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...
Oct 26, 2009 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...
May 20, 2009 | GE JKP15 Electric Single Oven
May 17, 2009 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...
May 16, 2009 | GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven
May 15, 2009 | Ovens
Apr 27, 2009 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...
Feb 04, 2020 | KitchenAid Ovens
51 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: