E2 error reset a couple of times, but the error comes out more frequent, now drum stop run/spin
FROM FIXYA
Sanja Salatic NOV 29, 2009
The e2 error is a generic error that the machine shows if it's been overloaded or if the load becomes unbalanced during a wash cycle.
to fix you must do a master reset of the washing machine.
1. Close the door and make sure the dial is pointing to the "OFF" function
2. Hold the Start/Pause button and turn the dial anti clockwise (to the left) to the "express 15 min" program at the same time.
3. Hold the Start/Pause button for a minute (the e2 message is meant to start flashing after a minute of holding the button down however with my washing machine this didn't happen)
4. Release the button and turn the dial back to the "Off" function.
5. Select any program and the message should not be appearing.
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Testimonial: "I did clear the E code, water-filled, pumped, but the drum did not spin during the whole circle."
I HAVE RUN INTO A SIMILAR SITUATION. IT WAS A LOOSE 'DOOR CLOSED SWITCH', I USED A PENCIL TO TO PUSH THE SWITCH A BIT WITH THE LID OPEN. THE SWITCH WORKED BUT THE PLASTIC POINTER WASN'T LONG ENOUGH BECAUSE SWITCH HAD MOVED A BIT. HAD TO TAKE TOP OFF AND SECURE SWITCH IN PROPER LOCATION
SO LID CLOSING WOULD MAKE CONTACT. DON'T MAKE YOURS TO RUN WITH DOOR OPEN. TOO DANGEROUS AND SOMEONE COULD LOOSE THEIR HAND OR ARM - SOMETIME IN THE FUTURE. BE WELL.
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E2 error on Bosch max classic turned out to be brushes were no good .replaced brushes all working fine
SOURCE: bosch 1200 classic express washing machine wont spin
Providing the machine isn't requiring major breakdown repair, the problem should be solved by emptying the machine and cleaning the drain pump. If this is obstructed the maching won't drain or spin as any bits left in clothes (paper clips, coins, nails, screws etc) wedge themselves into the (what I call a fly wheel) the pump impeller wheel at the back. If the fly wheel can't rotate the machine cannot pump or spin.
So.........turn off the washing machine before you fiddle about with it. Then, at the bottom right-hand side at the front of the machine there's a drop down door. Take this down and take it off. Then, lower the drain hose from its holder and pull the hose out of its housing. Be very careful if you're doing this while you have very hot water in the machine. To be safe, let the water cool before starting. Next take off the closing cap from the hose and empty the water from the machine. There are times when the water doesn't empty by this method so carefully open the door to the machine and bale it out. If the water does come out via the hose, have a suitably sized bucket at the ready as up to 20litres can be drained. Once you've done this, put back the closing cap of the drain hose and returned the drain hose to its holder, unscrew (anti clockwise) the petrol tank cap look-a-like placing a towel underneath as a little residual water will flow out. The pump impeller (fly wheel) must be able to rotate so clean out any residual fluff from the thread of the pump cap and pump housing before returning the pump cover and screwing tightly on. Put back the drop down flap and, hopefully, away you'll go again.
Hope this is of some help.
SOURCE: What does error code E2 mean? I have a Bosch Maxx
The e2 error is a generic error that the machine shows if it's been overloaded or if the load becomes unbalanced during a wash cycle.
to fix you must do a master reset of the washing machine.
1. Close the door and make sure the dial is pointing to the "OFF" function
2. Hold the Start/Pause button and turn the dial anti clockwise (to the left) to the "express 15 min" program at the same time.
3. Hold the Start/Pause button for a minute (the e2 message is meant to start flashing after a minute of holding the button down however with my washing machine this didn't happen)
4. Release the button and turn the dial back to the "Off" function.
5. Select any program and the message should not be appearing.
SOURCE: Drum doesn't spin error code LR
The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not
always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor
Control Board.
Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem
was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes
replacement instructions with the kit.
The LR code means "locked rotor" - the control is not seeing the motor turning.
The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.
Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.
The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major
problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.
Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.
The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a
diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.
Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif
From another source...
"Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.
Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 I'd call it a 3.5.
If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job.
It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.
Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.
Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting
screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.
The instructions are pretty clear.
Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer.
The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier.
This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.
They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board.
My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor.
All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor.
As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel,
this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft.
The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together.
There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish.
Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when
closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides
asthetics, so I tossed it.
The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."
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