Question about Bosch Washing Machines
I had to unplug from energy for few minutes to open the doors and take the clothes out. When I turn the equipment again it remains with pending 2 min to dry and nothing else works. The machine simply is not working!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It usually takes 2 minutes after the wash to open the door; do not force the door. Doesn't matter if the active light is on. Just try.
Posted on Oct 05, 2007
SOURCE: Unit will not turn on at all
Sounds like the problem is with the control board. There is an internal fuse in the board but it is not replaceable. You will need a qualified LG technician to service this unit.
Posted on Apr 28, 2008
The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these: Motor coupler Spin cycle Siphoning Water-inlet valve Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine. If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely. Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician. Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess. Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve
Posted on Jan 17, 2010
Having at one time done warranty service on those machines in a decent size city ( Calgary Ab. Canada ), I saw these almost daily so I know exactly what is preventing the clothes from drying ( 99% sure at least )...even though as you`ve stated "feel heat around the machine". The condensor fan wheel and heater housing are clogged with lint.
**turn off the power or unplug the "combo" from the wall**
If you are capable of removing the top you'll soon notice there is not much elbow room in there to work...even less than home units which are a little easier, but not much. Fortunately for this issue you won't need much. On top, directly behind the timer on the right hand side top of the tub, is a "condensor/heater housing" ( usually made of "white metal" or "pot metal" as some refer to it ) with a blower fan motor fastened to the top. Remove the fan motor wires and then the motor itself from the housing via four hex head screws ( they may be philips heads...that`s not important ) around the perimeter of the fan motor bracket.
This is where "elbow room" may be tight, but with persistence and careful maneuvering you can do it. You may be able to move the tub to the back and left While backing out the fastener's/screws to give you a little more room. Pull the motor assembly up & out ( careful of wires and sharp edges ) and examine the blower wheel and housing. By now it should be obvious of the problem. These unit's because they are so compact are vulnerable to lint build up in the blower wheel and housing hence, the unit will not perform well in the "dry" cycle.
When you have the blower removed I find running hot water from the sink tap ( or anywhere...I don't think it matters, ha ha ! ) over the blower wheel cleans it thoroughly. Cleaning out the condensor housing is a nother matter...by hand is one way to do it. It can be cleaned via a garden house, but be careful not to overfill the tub or flood your place. ( if possible, take the washer right out of the RV/motor home ) Normally it drains when plugged in, but since your's is not plugged in it will have to drain with gravity, that`s why it`s good to remove the entire machine from indoors. Hope that helps move you forward, or better yet solves the problem entirely. Let me know if I can assist you further, I'll watch for your reply here. Thank's for visiting "fixya" for your repair inquiries. Good luck, Macmarkus :)
Posted on Apr 14, 2010
If your dryer is a condenser type maybe you need to yank out the condenser and give it a good clean. Could not make the model number posted work.
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Posted on Sep 21, 2010
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