Fridge/freezer freezing up-and no fanor air circulation:
first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.?
AT TIMES The fan usually stops workingAND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELLdue to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check thedefrost timer,The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator.Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engageurdefrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providingurterminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Placeurmeter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Takeurmeter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Nowur1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u knowurtimer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is theheating elementitself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check thecold control thermostatwith a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEMand THERMISTORSAt times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being putout. In most models around 1300( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmdsBkO46dk defrost therm.
SOURCE: Kenmore refrigerator won't cool, but freezer does.
by closing that small door you are starving the refrig of cold air . you should be getting a heavy whisper of air through that door. place all controls in the middle position, close the freezer door and check for airflow through that vent.
SOURCE: GE PFS22MISBBB freezer not cold enough. Temp won't reset.
replace the fan as quickly as possible it may be shorting and causing damage to your control board,
SOURCE: norcold rv refrigerator freezer
Make sure the thermister is attached firmly to the fins in the back. The boards on a Norcold can be reset a service center familiar with this process is your best bet. It takes disconecting the board and then shorting it out best to leave it to some one who is familiar.
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite bottom freezer refridgerator
I just went through this with my refridgerator and actually posted one of the questions. Here is what I found ........
In the freezer compartment behind the panel there is an evaporator fan which pulls cold air from the freezer and pushes it up into the refrridgerator compartment. If the fan is not working it is one of three things.. 1) there is so much frost in the fan area the fan blade is stopped and cannot push the cold air into the refridgerator compartment or the air channel is blocked. 2) there is no electricity going to the fan (usually tied to the door switch of the refirdgerator compartment, and 3) the motor is dead and will have to be replaced.
Solution to #1 - defrost but there is another problem in the "frost-free" part of the system which must be addressed or the frost will return and it will happen again in the future.
Solution #2 - check to see there is power to the fan. (most are 110VAC but some are 100VDC. Use a meter and check)
Solution #3 - If there is power, the motor is dead. Replace the motor. Be aware that AC and DC motors are different and replace per manufacture's specifications.
SOURCE: Fridge side of American Fridge/ freezer not cooling down.
does the fridge have 2 motors or 1 if it have only 1 motor the gas level in the system are low. if it have 2 motors check if the fridge side motor runs
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