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Generac gp5000 will not start. Replaced on/off switch, ignition coil, spark plug AND carb. as well as fuel line and fuel filter. I have spark but cannot get the engine to even cough.

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You have spark so a quick test using starter fluid.

Remove air filter.
Spray a short bust (~1 second) of starter fluid directly into throat of carburetor.
Promptly crank engine.

If engine is not flooded and spark, timing, and compression are satisfactory, the engine will run for a couple seconds until starter fluid is exhausted.

If it fires with starter fluid it indicates no fuel is being delivered from carburetor.

If it doesnt fire, then insufficient spark, engine is flooded, insufficient compression, or timing.

Posted on Oct 14, 2019

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Posted on Oct 13, 2019

Testimonial: "Yes it does. Oil level is where it should be. I've also tried to start with that wire disconnected. I do have spark"

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  • STEVE Oct 13, 2019


  • STEVE Oct 13, 2019



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Go to and download the book. or if you have a book, go to the troubleshooting chapter. lol.

Posted on Oct 13, 2019

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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SOURCE: starts runs min. or two then stops....

Go to then click customer care, then click manuals and parts. Type in model no. and download the owners manual. This should get you the spark and flywheel gap. Probably still something in the carb. Some orifices are very hard to find and to clean but they must be clean. Also check for dirt dopper nest in the muffler.

Posted on Apr 06, 2009


  • 226 Answers

SOURCE: Craftsman Chainsaw will not start

It's your ignition, which you can take that stuff apart on the left hand side of the saw under the recoil. I have 2 of these, & you can get the parts. Maybe its just the magneto gap adjustment, which is like a business card or newspaper width gap. I would check that first. Hope this helps you, Rick

Posted on Apr 29, 2009



  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: i have a generac ix

You engine has a low oil level sensor. If the oil level is low or..... the sensor is bad it will ground the ignition from the coil with the engine switch on. For troubleshooing only disconnect ONE wire from the sensor AFTER you make sure the engine oil level is properly serviced. Then check for spark.

If this does not correct the problem just respond and I will help you.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Posted on Mar 29, 2011

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Jim Parker

  • 1041 Answers

SOURCE: Engine runs great for 10 minutes and then stalls.

Believe it or not, your gas cap is clogged up with dirt and debris. When a carburetor is unable to get a constant flow of air from outside, pressure builds up on the fuel tank. The fastest way to determine whether or not this is the problem is as follows.

As you are using your Mower, at that point when it begins to stall out, loosen the gas cap so that you release the pressure that is built up in the gas tank. If the engine begins to regain power, then you know it is a clogged gas cap. (Simply get a small wire and clear the breathe holes in the cap.) If the engine dies even after loosening the gas cap, then you may want to check to make sure the air breather is clean. ( A dirty air breather can cause the engine to over heat and stall out.)

If none of this seems to help, then it is probably a bad Ignition Coil.

Good Luck!


Posted on Jul 29, 2011


Thomas Perkins

  • 14827 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 Husqvarna 55 rancher will not start.

Adjust the carb.,or rebuild it.

Posted on Nov 16, 2012

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Here's a quote from amy Chilton's manual for 1980-1987.

"Several types of fuel filters are used. One is located in the fuel tank of all the vehicles and is part of the fuel guage assembly. Second is a sealed paper element, in-line unit; mechanical system- located on the engine (above the fuel pump) or electrical system- located in front of the fuel tank. Third is a paper element, in-line fuel filter/vapor separator, housed in a fuel resevoir. Normally, the in-tank filter does not require changing. If it does, the fuel tank must be removed. "
This thing you describe sounds like the typical Chrysler in-line filter of its day. It is nothing more than the same generic in-line plastic see-thru filter you buy for your lawn mower except in the 70's and 80's it was covered in metal and had a Chrysler part number. A lot of guys added an extra filter in those days, it wasn't the best system. I would remove the outlet line and turn the fuel pump on, see if you get fuel. Replace if needed.

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See if you have spark to the plug, if not replace coil. You did everything else it should start, make sure start switch is to the on position. You replaced carb are the lines connected to the correct places and not kinked. Is your clunk clean. not much else to go wrong. Good Luck......

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If it is new and under warranty, talk to Generac about getting it fixed.

If it is old and unused, it probably needs fuel system cleaned out. Carb needs to be removed and cleaned inside and out, fuel lines need flushing, filter changed and if it has an automatic choke, it needs to be checked because it sounds like it is stuck on.

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I have an old echo weedwacker that runs excellent for 10 minutes then dies when the trigger is squeezed until it cools down again. I checked all the obvious please help

sounds like a fuel problem, first check the fuel tank vent, thats the little whithe thing on the 3rd line comming out of the fuel tank, make sure you can **** air thru it
then check the fuel line for cracks, and of course the in tank fuel filter are clean. If none of these help take the carb apart and see if the screen on the metering diaphragm is obstructed with dirt. These are the most common solution for your problem. On the wild side, if it dies again, remove the spark plug as soon as it happens and see if you have lost spark, some of the ignition modules have a heat sensor in them that will short and stop the spark when it gets hot, if thats the case you will need to buy a new module, Not a common broblem but I have seen it a few times, Echo is probably the best built 2 cycle on the market..

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After running for 20 to 30 minutes, engine looses power and stops. Will start up again immediately. Recently replaced spark plug, air filter, fuel filter and an oil change.

This type of issue has 3 possible senerios. In 35 years, I have experienced each of these by themselves, or sometimes multiples at the same time. This is a tough issue, but can be resolved with enough patience and a test area.

#1 Fuel Related
Depending on make and model of mowers:
a) Fuel tank outlet plugged (some have a screen filter, some are 90' angle and plug with rust and debris inside the corner of fitting)
b) Fuel lines collapse when they are routed thru fasteners and between frame and seat decks
c) Fuel cap vent clogged
d) Fuel filter clogged
e) any fitting that has an orifice that can trap debris or rust will eventually become clogged
f) fitting on the side of the carburetor
g) some systems have a filter inside the line at the opening of the carb inlet
h) fuel pump
i) vacuum hoses to fuel pump
j) debris under inlet needle/seat on carb

#2 Ignition related issues due to time and heat
a) Flywheel looses magnetism (not too common, but does happen)
b) Ignition switch or circuit breaker overheating
c) wire connection on plug-ins to switch or wire harness
d) points/condensor breakdown
e) ignition/armature coil
f) spark plug wire
g) electronic trigger/coil overheat

#3 Exhaust Valve and/or sticking due to overheating
a) valve stem is coated with excess carbon
b) valve face and seat are worn and do not seat properly after becoming warm
c) valve clearance too tight

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at

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Should be two fuel lines coming from fuel tank grommet. One feeds the carb's primer plate and the other returns from the same. Open the fuel tank and observe while pressing the primer. If you see fuel pumped INTO the tank while pushing the primer and pulled FROM the tank when the primer is released, you're OK. If not, the lines are backward. Filtered line is on SUCTION side of primer bulb. Unfiltered line is on PRESSURE side of primer and is simply a return to the tank.
Next, concerning the coil: Air gap should be .010 inch at the magnet. Echo ignition coils are warrantied for life to the original purchaser, so don't tamper too much with it. Check gap and check fire with a spark tester. If no spark with switch in on position, take it to an AUTHORIZED SERVICING dealer, found here.

Hope this helps,

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1 Answer


Not so many reasons she won't start. 4-Strokes are Simple!

Here they are:

Fuel Tank-> Fuel Line-> Fuel Filter-> Carb-> Intake (Valve)-> Piston-> Exhaust (Valve)-> Muffler

Carb (Old Style):
Fuel Side:
Fuel Bowl-> Float-> Needle Seat-> Fuel Ports (Venturi)
Air Side:
Air Filter-> Carb Air Intake-> Butterflies (2)
(Clean 'em ALL!)

Hardware (Motor):
Rotor (Magnets)-> Magneto (Ignition Coil)-> Spark Plug Wire-> Spark Plug-> Cylinder Head (Spark Plug Ground)

Kill Switches (Seat, Clutch, etc.)-> Spark Plug/Ignition Coil-> Ground
Key Ignition-> Battery->Starter/Generator

If one of those fail.......= Non-Starting 4-Stroke!

You are either getting too much, or too little. Too much = Carb.
Too little = Carb. Therefore, tear down the Carb (COMPLETELY-Careful!) and clean it up.

Grounding out the System (Kill Switches)
Battery-> Ignition-> Starter.
Magneto->Plug Wire->Plug (Check 'em all!)

May 28, 2009 | Mtd Garden

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