Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
Have you tried unplugging it from the hydro? It may just need to reset itself.
All machines nowadays are like computers, and need a reset every now and again. Since they don't have a reset button, it may help to unplug power and leave it unplugged for 5-10 minutes.
Posted on Oct 14, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Look at your manual, usually available on net for reading or downloading. Blink lights are often used to code out a problem with various combinations and repetition rates to indicate trouble code number for look-up in manual.
Posted on Feb 22, 2009
unplug the dryer,if you haven't cleaned out the dryer check the thermal fuse located on top of the blower wheel housing,remove bottom panel,then remove lint filter,now remove the duct that the lint filter slides down into,now you'll be able to check the thermal fuse located on the top right side of the blower wheel housing,there's also a thermister there too,the fuse is the one on the left,part number 3392519 or 3390719,remove one of the wires and read it out with your meter.also while your in there vac out the inside of dryer,if you have a shop vac put it on blow and blow off all the lint that's built up on the motor and you can also blow the lint that's in the back of dryer forwards so you won't have to pull the drum,if you have a long run on the vent line from the wall to the outside blow it out with a leaf blower,if there is any blocks in the vent line,the duct or lint inside the dryer you could have a fire so this should be done every year,now if the fuse is good you gonna have to read out the ignitor,the sensor and the gas coils,if you have parcial heat it's definetly the gas coils,when they heat up they stop working when they're bad,if you need anything else let me know,so check the thermal fuse first,then the ignitor,sensor and coils,if they are good check to see if power is coming down to fuse and ignitor,you have a computer board on this dryer but most of the time it's the fuse and a dryer clean out
Posted on Dec 17, 2009
I had exact same issue. I've called Sears Maintenance. They had to change 2 pieces in UI: Timer KUDS02SRB10 and CONSOLE Assy.
Cost 360$ pieces 130$ Job Charge 60$ taxes.
Now It works perfectly, but I bought 1100$ 3 years ago... Really expensive to keep it running.
Posted on Sep 01, 2010
"F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.
Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice. Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU. Now check the following:
- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.
In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.
NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.
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Posted on Sep 18, 2010
The blinking "clean light" is a common problem with some of the Kenmore and Whirlpool models dishwashers.
The problem is usually attributed to water supply temperatures being too low when filling.
Apparently, there are some issues with the temperature sensing circuits in some dishwashers that causes an error code to be generated if a certain water temperature is not achieved in a specified time interval (this time may differ between models).
There is a reset sequence that you can try to clear the fault.
Push the NORMAL WASH then HEATED DRY buttons in that sequence two to three times.
The unit will enter diagnostics mode, but can be stopped by pressing the CANCEL button.
This will clear any existing faults and should return the dishwasher to normal operation.
To keep the fault from returning, it is recommended that you run your hot water faucet in the kitchen until it runs hot BEFORE you start the dishwasher.
This will heat the water in the supply line for the dishwasher (most dishwashers are fed from the kitchen sink supply line).
The theory is that if you fill the dishwasher with hot water from the start of the wash cycle instead of the cool water that is normally in the lines (especially if you have a hot water tank located far away from the kitchen), this should satisfy the requirements of the temperature sensing circuits.
If the fault reappears, there should be a tech sheet located inside the lower panel under the door that explains what the fault is.
The flashing light will be a series of flashes, followed by a pause.
If you indeed have a component problem, it will depend on the number of flashing lights in the sequence.
Refer to the tech sheet to determine WHAT component is affected and how to troubleshoot.
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Posted on Sep 30, 2010
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