SOURCE: Have no hot water flowing at all from my Atwood
Hi and welcome to Fixya.
Here are 2 manuals that should help you in troubleshooting your RV hot water problem.
Multiple times there is a ref. to resetting the reset switch for 30 seconds on the unit (cover removal required)
For the ignition:
http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/waterheaters/MPD%2093757%20PS%2011.19.07.pdf
For the water heater:
http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/waterheaters/MPD%2093050%20PS%204.9.09.pdf
The manuals as written are full of warnings mixed in with meaningful text. (Not user friendly)
SOURCE: i have a 2003 pace arrow motorhome. i can not get
Check by-pass valves at back of tank for wrong positioning. Cold goes in bottom, hot out top and both should be open, and any valves in between should be closed.
SOURCE: noritz tank less propane water heater, no out going pressure
There's a filter on the cold water side of the unit. You'll notice a black, plastic, cylindrical component directly below the unit on the cold water line pointing to the left. If you shut of your water and unscrew that cap, there will be a filter attached to the other end.
If the filter is clean, I'd recommend calling tech support for help. You might have an error code.
SOURCE: low water pressure
Hi Bob,
You can determine if the tank is the problem by connecting a garden hose to the drain that is provided on most water heaters. Before doing this, be sure to shut of the electrical supply to the heater - otherwise you can damage heating elements if an electric type or waste fuel by heating an empty tank if a gas / propane fired type.
If you get a slow flow out of this drain, it means that somewhere in the cold water supply side to / in the tank - there is a problem. Inside the tank, the cold water is delivered by a "dip tube" that distributes the cold water to the bottom in the tank. Dip tubes are used in both electric and gas / propane fueled heaters. Here's a cut away view of a typical tank:
If the tube is clogged, or there is build up, scale or debris in the supply (cold water) side of the heater, flow rates will suffer. Likewise, if there is a problem with the output of the tank, it will directly affect flow as well.
If you get a good flow rate from the drain, then the issue is going to be on the hot water output side of the heater. Again, the same build up, scale, debris issues on the hot water out put pipe will cause problems with flow. Typcial tanks do not have dip tubes for the hot water side of the tank - as taking hot water from the top of the tank is most desireable and is furthest away from the cold water that rushes in to make up the hot hot water going out.
There's nothing really in the tank itself that can cause issues with flow outside of the dip tube, and piping to and from the tank.
Good luck!
SOURCE: rheem rte13 standby (green) light not on
You might have crossover problem caused by bad faucet cartridge.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html
The green standby light should come on when 240Volt power is applied. Page 6 manual.
Both red lights should come on when tankless is activated. Page 6 manual
RTE 13 requires 60 amp breaker and 6 gauge wire
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Tankless-electric-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Rheem-TanklessElectricUC_AP15447.pdf
Factory temperature setting is usually default 120 degrees.
Adjust temps page 11 manual
Thermostat calibration is always approximate.
120 degrees is not hot enough to burn the skin.
Exceptionally cold incoming water temperature can cause tankless not to heat enough hot water: install tempering tank to preheat water to room temperature.
Tankless cannot be exposed to more than 11 grains hardness in water. Delime tankless yearly, clean water filter monthly, do not install low-flow restrictions or conserve water since the flow rate must remain high for tankless to activate.
Rheem does not post service manuals for their tankless water heaters.
Call Rheem 800 432-8373
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7
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