New kit in carburetor still surging and sneezing

Yes, black smoke is too rich, blue is oil and white is steam/condensation.

Surging is normally caused by air entering the inlet manifold or governor.

All Carburetors have adjustment
Needle height
Main Jet size
Idle Jet air control (often hidden under a silver disc).

surging

https://www.google.com/search?q=18hp+Briggs+and+Stratton+surging

Carburetor adjustment

https://www.google.com/search?q=18+hp+briggs+and+stratton+carburetor+adjustment

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Here are the 5 requirements for mid-shelves sneeze guards.

1. Mid-shelves sneeze guards must be made of a clear material in order to allow customers to see the food and other items on the shelves.
2. Mid-shelves sneeze guards must be at least 18 inches tall in order to provide adequate protection from sneezes and other airborne contaminants.
3. Mid-shelves sneeze guards must be able to support the weight of the food and other items on the shelves. This is to ensure that the sneeze guard does not collapse under the weight of the items it is protecting.
4. Mid-shelves sneeze guards must be easy to clean and sanitize. This is to ensure that the sneeze guard is effective in protecting the food and other items on the shelves from contamination.
5. Mid-shelves sneeze guards must be durable and able to withstand repeated use. This is to ensure that the sneeze guard will last for a long time and will not need to be replaced frequently.

Hello Andrew from another one :>D

It sounds like you had a mains voltage issue whilst you were away.

Disconnecting from the mains for 5 minutes will reset it. If that doesn't fix it, it's a Smeg, you will need a Service Call and probably a new control board.

Make sure there are no vacuum leaks on the engine manifold side of carburetor. There are 3 o 4 pieces on the engine side so inspect well.

If no leaks on engine manifold side then likely there's a blockage somewhere in the carburetor high speed circuit. Most economical solution is chinese knock-off for ~$20 US delivered.

If you can't find a cheap replacement then you'll need to do a deeper clean of carburetor by removing welch plugs and submerge in carb cleaner. You will need new welch plugs (kit) and likely kit will cost more than a knock-off carb.

Before tearing down carb, you could try Seafoam fuel treatment... probably less the 50:50 chance it will clear.

This should go back to who put the motor in or who you purchased it from to be fixed.

A new fuel filter with new fuel lines and a rebuild kit for the carburetor should do it. You may even be able to get away with just the gasket and diaphragm kit for the carburetor. It is cheaper than the complete rebuild kit if you choose. Run synthetic oil and these things will last a good long while.

If the "T" is broken the new "T" will come with o-rings to seal it into the carburetors. If the o-rings are all that is leaking, Honda only sells the o-rings in the "T" kit or in the carburetor o-ring kit (either the "T" kit or the carburetor gasket kit will probably run of minimum $50 per carburetor or more ). If all you need are the o-rings , find a dealer that stocks the K&L generic carburetor o-ring kit. You should be able to pick out the o-rings you need for about $1 each (you will need at least two up to six depending on how many tubes run between the carburetors). If you are dealing with one of Honda's tubular rubber "T"s , then you will just have to spend the cash for a new one. The procedure involves removing the carburetor rack and carefully separating the two leaking carburetors so you can insert the new "T" or replace the o-rings. If there are more tubes than just the "T", be sure you replace all the o-rings so you do not have new leaks after reassembly.

Your probem is the carb...it has some trash/debris in one of the fuel passages.
I highly recommend that you reclean and reset your float level.

Check your fuel filter, if you have one.
It may need replacement or cleaning.
Also check your fuel tank for debris/trash and clean it out if necessary.
If the mower/weedeater is over a year old, then I recommend that you buy
and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard
and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor
internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.
Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small
rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid
and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of
the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Keep in mind that the float for the carburetor must be level when you go to
reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the
carburetor kit.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need
to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes
to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first
and then turn them back out to their orginal position before you started.
This is a FREE answer,Please rate me

1. Carburetor is dirty.
2. Air leak in carburetor or intake manifold (e.g., bad O-ring, gasket, primer).
3. Carburetor is improperly adjusted

These are some of the more typical reasons that can cause a small engine to surge.