Old fan / blk-L1 / yell-L2-cap / ben-cap.
New fan, blk-L1 / wht L2 / brn-cap /brn-cap.
The new motor two of the wires are the same wire, omit one, splice them together, or use them.
The new motor, one of the browns is the white wire, sometimes the brown identified with a tracer stripe, white stripe.
Black wire is still black in new L1. Yellow wire becomes White and Brown/white. Solid brown remains capacitor.
As John said you will likely be using 2 capacitors now.
It sounds like you have replaced the fan motor. If so and it has 2 brown wires, you need to use a separate cap for it. (Commonly a 5 mfd/370~440 volt) There's a way to make it work with the original 3 terminal cap, but you really need to understand the process. Simply buying the correct fan cap, and using the 3 terminal cap for the compressor would be the easiest way to do this. On many condensing units, the yellow wire is the start wire, and connects to the "Herm" terminal of the cap.
SOURCE: compressor fan unit wiring
There should be a wire diagram on your service pannel locate the fan wiring and and you will find your answer.
SOURCE: Wiring compressor
The two terminal cap is only for the new fan motor. Connect the compressor wire back where you found it, on the 3 terminal cap. It's the terminal marked, "herm". The "common" terminal on the 3 terminal cap must still be connected to one side of the 220 power at the contactor. One side of the 220 goes to the common on the compressor. The other side of the 220 goes to the run winding on the compressor AND the common terminal on the 3 terminal capacitor.
SOURCE: Connecting new fan/motor assy
a capacitor is typically inline with your power source and stores a large amount of power to supply bursts of power when heavy draws occur. it sits between the source and the motor so you should have the (source - capcitor - motor) hot wires all conecting at the same place. The other wire on the capacitor should be the ground (if they have +/- markings use the negative as the ground).
SOURCE: REPPLACING FAN AND COMPRESSOR CAPACITORS WITH A SINGLE UNIT
Well, it sounds as if you have a Coleman rooftop unit. If you have a start capacitor with a PTCR (Postive Temperature Coefficient Resistor) then it is different than if you have a Potential Motor Starting Relay. Why are you replacing the run and the fan capacitor?
Here is a link to the documentation that you need. If you do not have a Coleman and it is in fact a Duo-Therm, let me know the model number and I will be able to pull up the wiring schematic.
Thanks,
Jeff
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