When my inverter is shut off it still is drawing from the battery..Any ideas what is causing this

You're running more than the specified power. The refrigerator is an inductive load, which means the power factor Pf will be less than one. Consequently, the power draw from the inverter is Volts x Amps / Pf. Also, if the inverter voltage is less tan 120V, the refrigerator's compressor and fan motors will draw more current than the nominal rating. How much more depends on the motor design. The harmonics from the inverter (it has anon-sinusoidal input) may increase energy loss in the motors, especially if there is a fan with a shaded pole motor (common in refrigerators). The bottom line is that you are probably drawing at least 420 Watts from an inverter rated for 410 Watts. It's very close to shutting down on you, and may cause premature failure in the refrigerator.
I recommend getting an inverter with at least 450 Watt capacity, preferably with a true sinusoidal output, or harmonic content less than 5% under full load..

Check your battery voltage when running the inverter. At 100W, the voltage may drop several millivolts maximum, initially and will slowly drop. At 100W, the inverter may draw 15 to 20 amps from the battery. At 1000W, the inverter will draw upwards of 100A which is very hard for most batteries to provide for very long. I have a 5000W inverter connected to a 12V, 830AH battery bank. At 600W output, the inverter draws 70A. At 1500W, it draws almost 150A. At 600W output the battery voltage will drop almost 2 volts over 8 hours of operation. At 1500W, I would get maybe 5 hours, but I have never run a load like this for any length of time.

If you put a 100W load on the battery and the voltage drops 2 volts very quickly, then the battery is shot.

It sounds to me that you have a load that draws too much from time to time. If the inverter will run without a load without a problem, try adding loads one at a time until it starts to trip off. That should give you an idea as to what the problem is. It could be that there is a problem internal to the inverter that causes it to trip prematurely..

Not likely as low voltage should shut the inverter down. Check your battery anyway. 13.5vdc fully charged and each cell that is bad is about 2.25vdc off that. Sounds like the inverter has had an internal failure and unless you are an electronics tech, beyond your capabilities to repair without serious training.

I suspect parasitic draw. All vehicles draw some power from the batteries when the car is shut off. Certain accessories such as clocks, radios remote door openers and alarms always need power. The normal power used is called parasitic draw.

It is always a very low draw so it doesn't run the battery down. If you install accessories like shortwave radios or plug things like inverters and portable refrigerators into the accessory socket and operate them too long without the engine running you can drain your batteries to the point where the engine won't start. If there is an electrical short in the vehicle or a malfunctioning accessory it could be drawing much more than its normal load causing a drain on the batteries. If you leave your door open and the inside lights stay on all night you could drain the battery down till the car won't start.

Here's also a good resource for your car specifically on narrowing down the cause of the drain.

Looking at this, how many amps does the pump normally draw? Take this and multiply by 3 for start up current draw. Now, multiply that by 120 (volts) and this will give you the watts. Start up current is what will knock your inverter down. It won't kill the inverter but it will overload it on startup and turn off the unit. Since I do not know the size of your pump, this is my caution. You could always try it, the most that should happen is that the inverter will shut down.

remove the battery and take it to auto zone or Interstate battery and have the battery check for a bad cell if you have a shorted cell this will cause the problem. if the battery is low on water this can also cause a problem. if the battery checks out OK and there is no constant draw on the battery from say a water pump then you have a bad converter.

Hey, Question: Is the 2400 watt the peak rating or the continuous rating of the unit, and what is your power source for the inverter. If 2400 is the peak, the 1200 is probably the continuous. Your 75 watt fridge will draw probably 150-170 watts to start up, which will load the inverter to draw 15-17 amps of load on your 12 volt power source. If the battery supply is weak, the current draw at startup will cause the voltage to drop and set off the alarm. Getting the start up out of order may work for a while, but will eventually blow the internal fuses on the inverter, or possibly blow out the capacitors. Check the condition of the battery supply, and make sure the bar fridge is in good working order to resolve this problem.

Sounds like one of two things are happening:

1. Microwave is drawing too much current, causing internal voltage monitoring circuitry in inveter to go into protection mode.

or

2. RFI from microwave is somehow being few into inverter causing similar circumstance.

Until the inverter is turned off completely, either via remote or on the front of unit it will draw power, it goes into standby mode. Waiting for a load. Depending on the remote you have, if you have on they turn off differently. A link remote or basic.