Where can i find a new chain bar adj screw for WEN 3818 gas saw?

I saw a similar model for sale, for about $40, that could be used for replacement parts, or might even replace it if it actually works ok.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wen-Working-14-Electric-Chain-Saw-Model-6014/263764420734?hash=item3d6995a87e:g:KUQAAOSwOAda4nEM



Wen Working 14 Electric Chain Saw Model 6014 eBay

First loosten that 1/2 bolt on the bar--the lookat the bar when it goes into the housing you will see the adjustment screw.Tighten the chain by turning the screw when you get it to where you want it then tighten the 1/2 inch bolt

all chain saws have a sprocket that the chain runs on this sprocket is what make the chain rotate on the bar. the bar is the long part that sticks out in front of the motor. you must remove the side cover of the saw to access the sprocket region of the saw. be sure the saw is unplugged and then remove side cover the bar is usually held in place by a couple of bolts. on gas saws these two bolts also hold the side cover in place and must be removed to replace the bar and chain. once you have removed the side cover look for bolts holding the bar in place. if you only want to change the chain then you may be able to only loosen the bolts or screws holding the bar in place.there should be a screw to adjust the bar forwards and backwards. this screw put tension on the chain so when you put a new chain on turning the screw will proberly tension the chain /do not overtighten the chain.
also be sure you put the new chain and blade on the same as the old one that comes off trying to cut with a chain that is on backward does not work. last note if you are replacing the blade because the old one is dull take the saw to a saw shop they can sharpen the exsisting chain and save you money.

You need to pull the bar out to tighten up the chain. The chain will stretch a lot the first day, And it will come right off. Check out the adj screw on there and loosen up the lock bolt/s, tighten up the bar, tighten up the lock bolts, Make sure the chain moves, not so tight it gets hot and freezes up. You should be all set. If the chain is stretched beyond the adj, you will need a new chain or get a link taken out of the old one, the hardware store, saw shop can do this for you.

It might be, but the chain has probably stretched past the limit. If you buy a new chain and match it up to this one, you won't believe the difference. If that is not the problem, take the chain off, take the bar off, clean out the adj screw, make sure it moves, set it back as far as you can, put the bar and chain back on, make sure you are in the drive sprocket, put the nuts on, adj the bar, tighten up the nuts, you should be set. My adj screw gave out long ago, I just pull the bar tight and go. Hope this helps.

Fuel ratio is 40:1 using modern chain saw oil--not any petroleum base oil like boat motor oil. Be sure to premix fuel and oil in it's own container and to shake vigorously just before filling the saw each time. To remove the chain, loosen the chain adjustment screw several turns CCW, release the chain brake, and remove the side nuts that hold the rear chain cover. The cover will just pull off, then the bar can be pulled rearward somewhat and the chain worked off of the bar. Remove the bar by pulling it outward. Clean the entire area where the bar and chain fit to the engine, then clean the bar oil ports that run from the larger holes out to the chain groove on each side of the bar. Start the engine with bar/chain removed--oil should ooze out of the side port where the bar fits to. If ok, and the chain appears to be relatively unworn, refit everything in the reverse order of removal, making sure that the chain teeth cut toward you on the bottom run, and the chain adjustment tang drops into one of the large oil holes when replacing the cover. Tighten the mounting nuts only finger tight, and adjust the chain screw CW until the chain ceases to droop from the lower side of the bar, yet not so tight that it can't be turned by hand. Tighten the mounting nuts firmly and recheck the chain tension. If ok, and the engine runs well, start the machine and hold the bar tip near some cardboard while running at speed for several moments--it should throw off a thin line of oil onto the cardboard. Use common chain/bar oil available from home centers, hardware stores and saw dealers. Make sure the chain is properly file sharpened. Hope this helps!

Remove the chain drive side plate and remove the bar. Clean the drive area and inspect the drive sprocket for excessive wear. Run the motor for a short time to make sure that oil is being pumped out to the bar--is should just ooze out. Clean the bar chain groove and clean the oil holes at the drive end of the bar--especially the two small holes that go from the large oil holes out to the chain groove. Back off the chain adjustment screw several turns, then fit the chain over the sprocket (teeth cut toward you on the bottom) and then insert the bar into the chain and push the bar out till the chain is fairly tight. Apply the side cover and make sure the adjustment tang drops into the large hole at the rear of the bar. Install the mounting nut(s) to hold the plate and bar together. When run-up finger tight, turn the adjustment screw CW until the chain becomes tight enough that it doesn't droop from the bar, yet can be be turned by hand. Tighten the side cover nut(s) and recheck tension. If ok, run the saw for a few moments with the bar tip near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Keep the chain properly sharpened to reduce the chance of this occurring again. Hope this helps!

You should see a hex key or Allen wrench nut somewhere on or near that cover. After you get it off, you should see 2 hex nuts for adjusting/removing the bar and/or chain tension, right on the bar, under the cover.

Are you pressing the trigger lock with your thumb before you pull the trigger? That's a safety feature to prevent accidental sawing.

There's not a sensor for the oil, but you don't want to run the saw dry. It takes a special bar/chain oil which is thicker than motor oil.

FYI... if you look for a manual on the web, search for "Wagner chainsaw" because Wagner bought the chainsaw business from Wen.

start at 1turn out on both that should grt it running from there..