Gets to 35-40 degrees then doesn`t maintain till is shut down and started over again.

You will have to pull off the covers ,then when it shuts down get a voltmeter and follow the circuit till you find zero voltage that will be the faulty part .

The self defrost mechanism is not working. The evaporator is getting blocked with ice, an insulator, and that affects freezer as well as refrig temps. When you unplug unit the ice melts and it will work till the ice block returns.

closed at start then close till around 85degrees c and full open around 95 degrees c. It should vary the opening depending on the water temperature lost through the radiator to maintain a constant engine operating temperature of around 88 degrees c.

You will need to replace the "cycling thermostat". Here is the part to order.

The presure switch is breaking down try taking the tubes off and blowing down the switch , or take a small drill bit and clean inside the connections to the pressure switch some times this becomes blocked .

Shut the pump off, then push down on the backwash (BW) handel turn it clockwise 180 degrees to BW and start pump again. Run pump till water coming from BW pipe runs from cloudy to clear. Shut the pump off and pushing down on the BW handel again turn it 180 degrees to filter and start pump again.

This unit has a diagnostic error code recorder. To play back your error codes, with the unit off, push the up arrow, down arrow and economy button all at the same time and hold for 3 seconds. Record each number that lights up. In your owners manual or on rinnai.us there is a error code guide that may help. Or post the error codes on Fixya and I can give you some pointers.

check temp inside of fridg it should be 0 degrees on freezer and 33 to 36 degrees on fridg section.. If not the defrost timer could be stuck.. if stuck you need to find defrost timer and manually turn till it shuts off and then turn again till it starts running. if it sticks again you will need to replace it..........

You will need to replace the temp probe Call704-891-6557 we'll tell you how to do it safely.

heat pumps generate heat from compressing freon and take a while to generate enough heat to be useful. never expect robust heat from a pump like an oil burner or a gas furnace, but they do heat great and are cheaper to operate. do this . if you are still using an old mercury bulb stat change it to a digital one. this will hold an exact temperature and time off between cycles will be less and the indoor coil will stay warm between short cycles, with an old mercurry stat you set it at 70 and it may run up to 73 and stay off till 68. thats a long off cycle and when call resumes the coil has gotten cold and has to start all over again. also dont wait till it gets cold to run a heat pump. turning it on and off as it gets cold is not correct. you should select a temp ,usually 71 for heat and set it and leave it on to do its thing.you may want to check the charge. hot gas discharge is usually 100 degreees hotter than outdoor temps after 15 minutes run time. for example if its 40 outside the big freon line outside thats insulated should be about 140 degrees. or you can run it 15 minutes and grab it with your hand . it should be almost uncomfortable to hold any length of time. careful some get quite hot. you also have the option of hooking up the electric strip to automatically come on if you push the stat up 2 degrees hotter than the temp in the room. that way you get heat pump and strips till temp gets within 2 degrees of set point and the strips shut off and pump maintains.good luck