I checked all 3 door switches, seems working fine. 2 have conductivity when door closed and 1 has conductivity when door opens Fuse has conductivity. Bottom thermostat has conductivity. Hood thermostat does NOT have conductivity. Does that suggest the hood thermostat is the problem? Will the microwave get fixed if I replace the hood thermostat?
That would be a shorted high voltage capacitor. You can get your part by looking it up by model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
You might have a bad or overloaded breaker, Did you try plugging it in another plug?
Thanks,Jimmy. The breaker seems fine, I plugged other items to the plug and it works. I tested the conductivity for some of the parts of the microwave. The fuse has conductivity. Primary switch and primary switch only have conductivity when door is closed. Monitor switch has conductivity no matter door is open or close (seems broken). Bottom thermostat has conductivity. Hood thermostat does not have conductivity (seems broken). Does that make sense the broken parts will trip the breaker? Thanks!
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SOURCE: GE JVM1651 Microwave
The control circuit board needs to be removed and repaired. We routinely repair these from customers nationwide for $32.50. It sure beats the cost of a new board!
SOURCE: Tripping of circuit breaker
Check what other appliances are on your circuit. What goes off when the breaker is tripped. You may need to relocate the microwave to a different circuit. Try to stay away from the refrigerator or AC circuits.
SOURCE: Microwave Power Blew Out - Kenmore Elite Model 721.63763300
This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount, or a problem on the control panel.
Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.
Switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
If you someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
There should also be a very helpful "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel. It's very helpful when troubleshooting.
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: GE JVM150001 Microwave
Willaim,
I have gone through the testing on the Mini Manual and still have intermittant operation. When I turn the oven on there is a secondary humming noise that indicates the oven is working. I can tell at once if the seconday hum is not there. When the oven starts that econd hum sort of kicks in a second or two after the oven starts. 6 months ago I seated all 4 of the door switches and the oven worked non stop for like 6 months. All of a sudden it went out again like before. Is there more to testing these switches than just continuity or no continuity? Can they be partially bad?
I was going to retest all switches for resistance and connections, as well as Magnatron and other high voltage connections per your Blog
Thanks,
Rwood
SOURCE: frigidaire gallery microwave door sags
Repairing the loose, detached hinge is simple.
First buy a pop rivet tool and 1/8'' or 3mm rivets for about $16 at lowes
Second remove the door. There is a little plastic pop tab on the inside top corner of the door by the hinge that keeps the door from lifting off of the hinge pins. Use a 1 inch putty knife or maybe a butter knife and pry from the bottom crack. Once tab is off the entire door can be lifted off.
Third, line up the little holes in the bracket with the little holes in the microwave face. Insert a pop rivet in the hole and squeeze the tool till it pops off. I put one 3mm rivet on the top hinge and one on the bottom.
No drilling needed on my Fridgidaire PLMV169DCd microwave. I guess u could drill a 1/8'' hole thru the microwave face and the hinge bracket if there isn't one on your model.
Thank you for your post, Steve Shaw!
From what you have described it sounds like a possible faulty wiring harness, control panel, or magnetron within your Frigidaire microwave. I would recommend having a professional out to provide a proper diagnosis. This will help to avoid unnecessary part purchases. -Matt
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