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Pauline Willis Posted on May 30, 2019
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On my 705 singer can't increase the stitch length. Have cleaned and oiled below and bobbin area although it looked in a good condition. Stitches are too short for heavier fabric.

Would taking off the top machine show up the problem?

1 Answer

R.A. Ellis

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  • Sewing Machines Master 12,731 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 01, 2019
R.A. Ellis
Sewing Machines Master
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Perhaps the feed dogs are worn down so they do not move the fabric properly. However, I picked up a used sewing machine at the thrift store and even after service it would still make only tiny stitches. I opened up the area around the bobbin and feed dogs, then applied Tri-Flow Superior Lube every place where metals rubs metal. There may even be red marks that indicate the oil ports, but I suggest concentrating on the feed dog movement. Then I direct heated air from a handheld hairdryer into the internal cavity of the machine. VOILA! She sews like normal now!!!

4 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 110 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 06, 2008

SOURCE: fabric pulls down into bobbin area

Increase your top tension, from 2 to 4, or from 5 to 6. Also check if there is no fluff or cotton in the top tension blades, preventing them from closing properly. Do this by lifting the presser foot and decrease the top tension to zero. This open the blades and allows you to inspect them. Good luck!

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Hassy

  • 1388 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 02, 2009

SOURCE: singer 237 stitches loose on bottom of fabric

Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.
Specific detail on bobbin case adjustment (with picture) near halfway down reply, the remainder will help you achieve a balance of top and bottom tensions.

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.

The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks

bargainbox.com.au

Anonymous

  • 11 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 14, 2011

SOURCE: Singer 6105 Tension knob

First make sure that the thread you are using in the bobbin is the same brand and type as in the spool that is threaded. I've read that using different weight threads at the same time can cause tension problems. I have actually had this problem and following this advice it went away. If this doesn't work you may need to have the machine serviced, unless someone else in the forum can advise otherwise. Good luck.

tsalagi152

  • 89 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 23, 2011

SOURCE: My Singer (model 237) sewing machine will not

Check and see if there are any broken little pieces of thread or lint in the bobbin case. Also you may need to oil the bobbin case....but usually, lint is the culprit. Good Luck.

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Model 66 with back stitch wont stay on longest stitches.

It is quite likely that the machine needs oiling. Somewhere in the drive train parts that need to move freely are sticking and causing the stitch length lever to drag back to a shorter stitch. Use a good quality sewing maching oil on everything that moves. Preferably use singer oil. under no circumstances use a "General Purppose oil". Machine oil is designed to evaporate leaving no residue behind whereas general oils simply dry out leaving a horrible brown varnish that actually gums up the machine. If your machine has brown varnish everywhere you look then this is probably the problem. You will need to thoroughly clean the machine with paraffin oil (kerosene) and then thoroughly oil everything as above.
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Will not zigzag or decorative stitches. New to these newer plastic style machines Always used older steel machines. This was given to me my by my sister who used it very little. Could cam be broken?

Hmm, I'm wondering if it has been cleaned and oiled recently. Older mechanicals require frequent TLC. Consult your owner's manual for cleaning and maintenance instructions:

Is your sewing machine mechanical (ie, not computerized)??? CAUTION--if your machine is computerized, do NOT proceed with the following suggestions.

If it is mechanical, have you cleaned and oiled your machine recently? Most mechanical sewing machine failures are because they have not been adequately and routinely oiled, the old oil has solidified and frozen the mechanics. I recommend Bernina oil or liquid Tri-Flow Synthetic Lube (or similar good quality sewing machine oil) for mechanical machines--do NOT use 3-in-1, cooking oil, WD-40, or the sewing machine oil from your grandmother's sewing basket. (I am not associated with any Bernina dealer.)

If it is in fact frozen, pick up a bottle of liquid Tri-Flow Synthetic Oil at the hardware store. Oil one or two drops in every oil hole (see your manual) and also every place where metal rubs on metal. But DO NOT oil any plastic gears, rubber, or belts. If it is still stiff or frozen, direct a hot handheld hair dryer into the top and bottom mechanism of your machine. See if that loosens it up. You may have to repeat.

Once your machine is working again, place a drop or two of good sewing machine oil as directed above. Be sure to use a small brush to clean the lint and dirt out of your machine, especially around the feed dogs and bobbin area. (Caution: Compressed air will sometimes force the dirt and lint into areas that cannot be cleaned.) And continue to use good quality sewing machine oil to keep it running. Recommendation: every time you change a bobbin, after 8 hours of sewing, or every six months if it is not in regular use.
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What should the tension be on for this machine?

Most of the time if the bobbin thread is coming through on top it means that the bobbin thread is too loose and/or the top thread is too tight and is pulling the thread too much. check and make sure that there isn't anything in the top tensioner that could be increasing the tension like lint. Good luck.
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My Kenmore 19233 refuses to zig zag stitch past 2mm wide. At 2mm it is a reliable stitch, moving toward 7mm it is a straight stitch with one or two zig zag blips.

Do you have it on zig zag or maybe it is in one of the hem stitches. Make sure you have not selected a special stitch. Sometimes with a small width setting it looks like no zig zag, then when you increase the length you see it is not.
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Sews about 5 stitches then stops and beeps. stitches look fine, just will not keep sewing

count the beeps and refer to the owners manaul as for troublshooting tips
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Need to know what the knobs are for

Are you sure that it's a Singer LS-1217? I can't find any model with 1217 on the Singer site.

The Brother LS-1217 manual is available here: http://welcome.solutions.brother.com/bsc/public/eu/eu_ot/en/doc/manual_top.html?reg=eu&c=eu_ot&lang=en&prod=hf_ls1217euk . The direct link to the English version of the manual is http://download.brother.com/welcome/doch000000/ls12171217b13171417ug01enesfrpt.pdf . There are only a few knobs on most machines. On the front near the needle is the Needle Thread Tension knob. If you use contrasting colors (different top, bobbin and fabric colors), you might see a straight stitch where the top thread is visible on the bottom of the fabric for example. Adjust the tension to get both the top and bobbin threads meeting in the middle of the fabric layers. (Increase the needle thread tension - rotate to a higher number but go in 0.5 increments.)

Then you have near the motor area the stitch width and length knobs. The width is only for zigzag stitches. A long stitch length is good for a temporary seam (like basting in a zipper or hem) before you finish that area. However, the width and length should be adjusted depending on the fabric. A fine fabric needs a smaller stitch, usually. The knob on the right side of the machine is the balance wheel (or hand wheel). This adjusts the needle height so that you can have the needle out of the way while changing the bobbin, for example.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells
(I use the Singer Sewing Book as a reference for tension issues.)
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The machine isn't making stitches. It's threaded correctly. I have been sewing leather recently and it's been acting up since then. I have cleaned the bobbin area. And have adjusted the tension...

Hello

Adjust the Stitch Length;

To make longer stitches, set the stitch length to a higher number. On many sewing machines, four is the longest possible stitch length and two is average.

To make shorter stitches, set the stitch length to a lower number. At a zero, the sewing machine may not actually make stitches, since the needle will go up and down in one place.

Cut a small scrap of fabric, preferably the same type you want to sew with.

Sew a few test stitches on the scrap. Examine the stitches to make sure they're the length you want.

Adjust the stitch length again as needed.
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My bottom stitches are bunching up every 10-15 stitches. I cleaned my bobbin area.

Check the bobbin tension and that the thread is tight around the bobbin. Make sure that the bobbin is in the right way around - the bobbin thread should double back on itself coming out of the bobbin holder.
Feb 22, 2011 • Singer 7422
1helpful
2answers

Jams

I make flannel square quilts for babies, it is a nightmare itself. It makes a lot of lint in the bobbin case and under the face plate, try prewashing the fabric before using it and clean out the bobbin case frequently while sewing. When i dont prewash it, i just open the bobbin area and blow the cotton dust out with my breath or i use the small brush to clean it out
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