Utilitech sump pump- I'm replacing model PPSP33 due to age is model 148010 the same so I avoid changing the discharge line

Question edited for clarity and spelling of maker.
Question moved from Cars and Trucks Category.

Parts and switches

https://www.google.com/search?q=Ulilitch+Pump+UT58150+replacement+switch

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It sounds like the pump is oversized and is short cycling because it pumps down too quickly. I recommend a much wider pit, or a 1/4 hp pump.

The oil has to be there. Intermittent starting is usually the float switch hitting something in the sump. If the pump motor has a capacitor on it, replace the capacitor.

Remove bottom cover, check for clogged intake holes, and make sure the impeller is solidly attached to the shaft. Can you see the water in the sump? Is the sump full of sand at the bottom?

There should be a float switch in the pit, sounds like its getting stuck and when you shake it it activates. Check the switch, the rod, etc.

You might have to make your own. Think of stainless steel rod etc. Utilitech is not a universal brand. Parts are not available and the whole unit is expensive. Grainger does not have anything and it appears that the exclusive provider is lowes.

OK, first using a sponge and bucket, drain out all the water of the dishwasher (DW) as you can. You can also use a towel too.

Check the discharge/drain cover at the bottom of the DW for any obstructions. Sometimes small pieces of all sorts of things get sucked into the drain port.

There should be a protective shroud/cover over the drain and you might have to remove a small hex head screw to get into the drain sump inlet. Some can be popped off without any tools.

Once you have the cover off, be VERY careful in probing the drain area trying to see if there are any small broken pieces of dishes or glasses that may have gotten into the sump area. You'll want to use a towel or sponge to get the water out of the sump area.

If you don't get anything out of the sump drain, it could be that the obstruction has worked its' way into the motor disposal impeller and you'll have to remove the DW from under the counter in order to get at the motor and pump assembly. This will require possible disconnection of the water supply line, AC power line or plug, and the drain line going to the sink or disposal.

Before getting into removing the DW, you can also check the drain line for blockage by disconnecting it from either the sink drain connection or disposal and blow into the line. If it's not clogged, you'll get air coming into the DW. If not, then the drain line is clogged. Also check the Air break connection, mounted on the sink, (if so equipped) and clean it out. You can also pour warm water down the Air break to verify that the line is clear.

If this doesn't work, please check my other solutions under dishwashers for a complete step-by-step for getting to the discharge pump section.

I've seen blockages occur fairly often on these models and it's usually caused by broken bits getting into the discharge pump and jamming the impeller. Once removed, normally the DW will work fine, unless the impeller has been totaly chewed up by the blockage, then you may have to replace the discharge impeller to get it able to pump out properly.

Hope you found this very helpful and best regards!

It's very old, stagnate water full of bacteria. Poor some Clorox in the sump and let it sit a while. Not the whole bottle, a few cups.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

clear the line from the air gap to the drain,, if the rest is clear the only thing it can be is the propellers on the pump, i which case you will need to change the pump

Follow these steps to replace a malfunctioning sump pump. If you are starting from scratch and want to put in a completely new sump pump and drain line, you should have a professional plumber do any actual piping unless you have an advaced knowledge of those techniques. Locate the sump pump in your basement. Unplug it to avoid possible electrical shock or personal injury. Find the place to disconnect the pump from the drain line. This is usually either a screw-together type union or a rubber coupling with hose-clamp fastenings. Both are quickly and easily undone. Remove the pump from the pit and allow it to drain for a few minutes. Any plastic piping or fittings that comes from the water outlet opening and goes up to where the pump connected to the drain line needs to be removed and saved to reattach to the new pump. Take the pump with you to your local hardware store, plumbing-supply house or home-improvement center. They can help you pick a replacement that requires the same power source and provides the same drain-line hookups and pumping capabilites. Reattach any piping and fittings in the same way that they were on the old pump. Set the new pump in the pit and reconnect the union. Plug in the pump. You can test the pump by filling the sump pit with buckets of water.