I have a LG French Door Refrigerator, and the symptoms started with my Ice maker not completing the cycle when its making ice. It would fill the tray with water, freeze and then just partially tilt and would stay in the position for days. If I pressed the reset botton it would dump the cubes, and start the whole process over. I did some further testing and it looks like the ice maker sensor thinks the ice bin is full. So I replaced the ice maker with a new unit. That didn't fix it so I installed a new controller board that is located at the top of the left door. Still no luck. Then I started getting Error Code: E 15 So then I installed a whole new main board on the back of the refrigerator. Ice maker and Error code 15 still persist. So my next step is to install a new Ice maker Fan unit When I have the fridge open and place a magnet on the switch to make the fridge think the door is closed the blower is producing good airflow going to the ice maker cavity, but from what I have read the E 15 is indicating that the fridge is not receiving a signal back from the fan. On a side note, If I unplug the fridge the E 15 goes away for about an hour, and then comes back on. I'm guessing about the time that an ice cycle is complete and the fridge is attempting to turn off that ice maker fan? and when it can't get a signal then it errors out??? just a thought Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
My problem was similar to yours and my lg refrigerator model number is: LMXS30776D/02, I followed the steps like you with no luck. I just fixed mine last night and it's a pleasure for me to share with you my experience.As I was trying to figure out what was wrong with my fridge, as I was shaking and lifting the left front door of my fridge I noticed that the error code E: 15 disappear on the display. As we open the door back and forth for normal use,the error E: 15 comes back again.From that,I realized something wrong with the left front door of the fridge. I ordered a new left door, It came in yesterday, I installed it last night and everything works beautifully in my fridge, no more code what so ever. as a result, if you are experiencing the same problem,most likely you need to think replacing the left door of the fridge.
Let me know if this help.
Thank you.
SOURCE: Inoperative Ice Maker
The icemaker stops working because excessive water gets into the control box(where circuit board is housed) through the shaft hole of "finger" and freezes the wheels to turn the "ice-bucket-full detector rod". This stops to send the signal to open water valve.
To fix, remove the icemaker from the wall (need remove two screws - make sure power switch is OFF) and carefully separate the snap-on cable (retangular shape) and a ground cable on the bottom side of the icemaker. (Now you can remove the icemaker out of the refrigerator).
You can open the contol box (need unscrew one and carefully prop it open using a screw driver or a knife. You can unplug color corded snap-on cables for easiness to work (very simple).
You will see ice formed around the plastic gear wheel controlling the "ice-bucket-full detector rod". Remove all ice and dry all the parts in the box and put them back. Make sure all the cable are back to the matching color receptable(only fits in the right place). Connect the cable(rectangular shape) and connect the ground cable. Mount the incemaker on the wall using two screws you removed at first.
Turn the power ON and reset the system by press down the ice cube size selector until the "fingers" make a full cycle. You will see the metal rod moves up and down as system resets. During this cycle the water will be filled into the icemaker.
I believe this icemaker has a design flaw but it's very simple to correct the problem you are experiencing. You do not need much electronic or mechanical knowlege to fix this.
Best wishes
Young
SOURCE: Whirlpool refrigerator ED22TEXHW01 ice maker
Tammi, you first want to check to make sure the water inlet tube to the icemaker is not frozen shut. Next, get yourself a jumper wire about 4 inches long with the ends stripped exposing the wire on each end. Pull off the ice maker cover, it will pull right off. Now you are looking at the module. On the module, left side, you will see two test points marked V and L. Insert one end of the jumper wire into V and the other marked L. You are now sending 120 volts to the water valve and water should fill the ice maker providing the inlet tube is not frozen over. If it doesn't fill, you either have a bad water valve or module itself. Also check to see if the clips that hold the center gear on the module are not broken. Catriver..post back.
SOURCE: SAMSUNG RS253BAWW NOT WORKING
the ice maker wont cycle untill the temp of the ice is around 10 degrees so if the freezer is at 15 or 20 due to some other malfunction then you will see the maker full of ice but it wont harvest and make another batch. so you could have a sensor bad, control malfunction, refrigeration issue, compressor, defrost system malfunction(you mentioned ice build up)
SOURCE: Ice maker freezing up
The problem is in the water valve.
The water supply line going to the Ref is connected to a water valve. This valve is not shutting off completely which causes water to drip into the ice maker. This dripping will freeze and eventually completely block the fill tube in the freezer.
SOURCE: Whirlpool Side By Side not making Ice, but water dispenser works
I just resolved an issue with my kenmore elite side by side refrigerator icemaker (model 106).
It was expensive because I took the long road to fixing the unit myself.
My problem: No water going up to the freezer water dispenser into the
icemaker but the water in front of the door working just fine.
-first thing i tried was the simplest. The Internet is clogged with
this miracle fix of using a hair dryer to melt the frozen water line
going to the dispenser output. This is highly unlikely for our model
since the water line is protected within the refrigerator frame.
-2nd thing I replaced my water filter (thinking that there wasn't
enough water pressure to trigger the solenoid valve. $40, and still no
luck.
-3rd thing was I tested for voltage going to the solenoid. No voltage
going to solenoid, so I wasted $30 for a new solenoid.....still no
water.
-4th thing was I ordered a new IR sensor and receiver (since the
reciever end is where the relay that sends the voltage to the solenoid
to turn on and allow water to go up to the dispenser).
My IR sender and receiver appeared to be working flakey.
Installed, still no water. $58 BUCKS ON EBAY (EVERYWHERE ELSE $100+)
-I finally removed the freezer front little white door, I TURNED OFF
THE FREEZER SWITCH SO NO VOLTAGE WAS PRESENT, removed the release latch
underneath the freezer unit and disconnected, and removed the freezer
unit to inspect it further.
When I removed the protective white cover that covers the mechanical
wheel, I had a few parts come flying out of it. Turns out that the
wheel accessories were damaged. THERE ARE NO REPAIRABLE PARTS ON THE
FREEZER UNIT. I FOUND ONE ON EBAY FOR $39 BUCKS + $9 SHIPPING! $48
BUCKS, SWAPPED THE HARNESS AND BOTTOM COVER, AND IN 20 MINUTES, I WAS
BACK IN BUSINESS. STARTED MAKING ICE IN ABOUT A HALF HOUR!!!!!
when in doubt, replace the freezer unit for $48 bucks! 7 out of 10
times it will fix your problems. All techs replace the IR set at the
same time too which will set you back another $58 bucks.
Good luck! ;)
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