I used an air burst from my compressor and felt it at the cap, but pushing the button doesn't allow oil to flow. It is a reconditioned unit from Ryobi, but I would want to fix it if I can - not really worth the hassle of getting it fixed.
There has to be two non-return valves in the system; one before the pump and one after. From your description I suspect the valve on the output side of the pump is absent which means operating the pump will not pump oil but will suck and blow air from oil outlet. Similarly the intake valve might be absent which means oil will be drawn from the reservoir and then pushed back, though in practice a little oil would probably emerge from the exit port. The description of valve tends to conjure images of rather more than the steel ball and possibly tiny spring that usually constitutes the valve, components that are easily displaced, lost, forgotten.
Testimonial: "Any idea of a picture of it, so that I can discover how to fix it? I'm trying to figure out if I should just throw it out and get a new one"
No, sorry. Link below to what I have found but sadly lacking internal parts. Why not just use an oilcan rather than throw it out? Certainly if I had paid good money for a recon unit I would complain bitterly to the supplier.
https://www.ereplacementparts.com/ryobi-...
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/547916...
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SOURCE: Ryobi 40cc chain saw oiler not working correctly
Hi
Check and clean the oil filter from oil tank.Check the worm gear wich engages with the oil piston pump(under the clutch).Near the hole where the oil comes out from oil tank there is an oil tank valve(see if it is clogged),it equalises the presure between interior and exterior of the oil tank.
best reagards savumihai71
SOURCE: Compressor not turning on, no cold air
you need new capcitor in your A/C and do also use , if can the (Stabilizer) for coolest performance.... thank you
SOURCE: jonsered cs 2250 fixed flow oiler can the oiling
Remove the housing that covers that bar and sprocket. There are two plates on each side of the bar that set over the studs.They may be identical or slightly different depending on the saw but at least one of them will have a hole in it for the oiler. If you remove the bar and both plates you will see the oiler hole on the saw housing. This oiler injects oil through the plate and into a small hole in the bar where the chain picks it up and carries it around the saw. If this hole becomes plugged with sawdust it will keep your saw from oiling the bar proplerly. This hole should be cleaned out periodically. It's not a bad idea to remove the whole chain periodically and clean the chain guide all the way around the bar and get any sawdust buildup out so the oil can flow better.
SOURCE: Automatic oiler does not work.
Outboard clutch illustration. The oil pump and worm gear are behind the clutch.
If inboard clutch do this first then view the outboard clutch to remove the rest. If out board clutch disregard the inboard clutch instruction.
R² Drive Link Inboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUbSIHMSSP8
The C-clips tend to fly when being removed. Please wear eye protection and exercise care.
R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc
Oil System Plugged.
Let us know how it worked for you.
Lou
Parts break out may be helpful for disassembly.
Homelite/Ryobi.com (authorized parts supplier)
https://www.gardnerinc.com/recons/disclaimer-lg.php - Agree; Choose “Product Line”; “Select OEM” & “Select Catalog” both to “Homelite Consumer Products”. A drop down list appears; self explanatory from here.
The numbers Homelite & Ryobi use do not match the numbers everyone posts. A careful inspection of your saw should find something that matches.
SOURCE: how do you take apart a ryobi lithium 18v one
This applies to Li-ion. NiCd is probably somewhat different. Unscrew four security screws on the bottom of the battery. If you don't have the right bit you can grind down the center pins in the screw heads and use a T15 bit. Unscrew the hex-head screw in the center of the protruding post at the top of the battery. It may be non-standard in size but a small metric hex key wrench works if you are gentle. The four corners of the battery cover should be loose now. There are still two plastic clips holding the top cover to the main unit near the centers of the long dimensions. Gently push a knife blade into the crack between bottom and top to release the clip on each side. As you lift the top cover off you should push down on the contacts near the top of the post so you don't pull on the attaching wires. Eventually the contacts should pop free and the top cover detaches. Detach the wiring harness for the status LED from the circuit board. You can now remove the combined circuit board and battery pack from the lower case. Six screws attach the circuit board to the battery assembly, along with several solder connections, but you probably don't need to go this far. You can now test and possibly replace individual cells.
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