Question about Sharp Refrigerators
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kenmore side by side - sounds like a fan or motor problem - on freezer side top left as you face the fridge behind ice maker, buzzing sound like a bad motor or fan - freezer working fine but noise dri
that,s your evaporator fan motor remove back panel
to expose fan repair cost about 150.00
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
You have a defrost problem. You need either the defrost timer, defrost heater, or the defrost bi-metal. If you have a meter you can ohm out the heater and the bi-metal ( as lonh a s the bi -metal is frozen as it opens when it gets warm to cut out the defrost heater) if you have an ohm reading on either one of the two the replace the defrost timer, if you don't then replace the part that has no ohm reading.
Posted on Sep 14, 2009
I recently had exactly the same problme with this model refrigerator. I found the problem to be the defrost timer. It is located behind the panel on the back of the refrigerator where the mains cord is located, you will need to replace it with the exact same model. I am in Australia and managed to find the exact part on ebay cheaply from a local appliance parts supplier, any appliance parts supplier that deals in Sharp refrigerators should be able to help you.
You will have to defrost the refrigerator overnight again before doing this repair.
Of course there are a couple of other components that could cause this problem, you can acutally check to see if the defrost time is moving by taking note of it's current position and then checking it every thirty minutes or so. If it does not move then it could be faulty, make sure also that power is getting to the timer as well.
Posted on Oct 27, 2009
Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Useing a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired togather . This would be the advisable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .
Good luck in solving the problem.......
Posted on Aug 15, 2010
Your defroster timer switch may be at faught. The defrost timer turns on a heating coil to defrost your frige. This is only a guess since I don't have the year. Do this: feel the walls if they are hard and they have no give to them, then your fridge is frozen up solid and no air can circulate. Unplug you fridge for 24 to 36 hours. Put towels on the floor to catch the water. If the defrost timer is bad it will defrost naturally with room temp. Plug back in after 24 to 36 hrs and see if bottom is now getting cold. If it is the defrost timer, the solution is not cheap. It's up to you to repair or invest in new. Good luck Google burdfrenzy
Posted on Nov 26, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Apr 12, 2017 | Sharp Refrigerators
Dec 25, 2015 | Sharp Refrigerators
Jun 26, 2012 | Sharp Refrigerators
Oct 17, 2011 | Sharp Refrigerators
Aug 10, 2011 | Sharp Refrigerators
Aug 06, 2011 | Refrigerators
Feb 25, 2011 | Refrigerators
59 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: