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athol tagg Posted on Oct 05, 2018
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How to remove oil pump on PCN3335 Ryobi chain saw. have removed the clutch but cant go any further

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Iain Miller

Iain Miller

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  • Posted on Apr 21, 2022
Iain Miller
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Just got to same point, alas its a complete stripdown and engine is to be taken out. Retaining bolts for the pump are underslung through the engine casing.

how to remove oil pump on PCN3335 Ryobi chain saw. - f235064b-7630-4e0b-9526-70982b20a6d5.jpg

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 4 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 16, 2008

SOURCE: How do I remove the clutch on an Echo chain saw??

Backwards to the rotation of the motor, all you need are basic tools to do this.

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Dec 31, 2008

SOURCE: Cant get clutch cover off new Husqvarna 235e chain saw

Mine did this when nearly brand new. You likely have a nasty jam of oil and sawdust stuck between the chain brake and the flywheel. It can be loosened by either careful prying of the case or precise shots of carb cleaner up in the housing. While you are in there look for a buildup of oil around the chain brake connection to the kickback paddle.

Dan Brock

  • 15 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 28, 2009

SOURCE: ryobi pcn3335 chainsaw manual

Call Ryobi Technologies 800-825-2579

steve_lima

steve

  • 181 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 23, 2009

SOURCE: husqvarna chain saw clutch bearing removal

you need a specal tool to remove the clutch assy.it grabs the clutch assy. and you spin it reverse thread.most shops will only charge you a couple of bucks to remove and install it if you have the parts

Anonymous

  • 2220 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 10, 2010

SOURCE: ryobi chainsaw pcn4040 - oil not being pumped onto

C. Both A and B. Is it the original bar? Has it ever worked with this bar? Yes continue, no reply below (first). Is there an oiler adjustment?
I know you did this, I have OCD. Good on you for checking.
Oil System Plugged:

  1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
  2. Work your way through the linkage (use IPL to identify components and locations) cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL).

I did not see a match to your model. If you can find it the exploded parts list with disassembly/reassembly. Also provide part numbers, where components are located, very helpful.
Homelite/Ryobi.com (authorized parts supplier)
https://www.gardnerinc.com/recons/disclaimer-lg.php - Agree; Choose “Product Line”; “Select OEM” & “Select Catalog” both to “Homelite Consumer Products”. A drop down list appears; self explanatory from here.
The numbers Homelite & Ryobi use do not match the numbers everyone posts. A careful inspection of your saw should find something that matches.

The 3 models I found all had inboard clutches and the oil pump behind them. Start with this:
R² Drive Link Inboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUbSIHMSSP8
The C-clips tend to fly when being removed. Please wear eye protection and exercise care.

Continue like this with the remaining pieces.

R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc
  1. Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed. Poulan (Craftsman, Jonsered, Husky) clutch removal tool part number 530031112 if needed, is under $5 from many sources (look at the visible area between the weights if 2 small round sockets are visible you need the tool).
  2. There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of nylon rope (nothing left behind) be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
  3. Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH
Lou

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Sorry Lynda
I did not want to close this until you had replied. A clarification will still post (below), I will check for your input.
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