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Re: I want to renew bearings on ryobi cr100vt,cant get...
Not worked on one of these however if you are talking about taking the two halves of the crankcase apart then you may need to heat either half to expand it away from the bearings.
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Sounds like something is loading up the motor. Is the guard bumper fouling the blade? It may need to be pulled apart and cleaned out. Maybe try a blast of WD40 anywhere where there's a shaft housing and try rotating the motor shaft manually back and forth. Found a parts diagram that may be of use to you - https://www.partswarehouse.com/Ryobi-CSB133L-7-1-4-Laser-Circular-Saw-s/11362.htm
IT is going to require the unit to be taken apart and a bearing puller to be used. Make sure you mark where the bearing race sits on the shaft so that you can put the new one back at the same distance as the old one. Use a scribe to mark the shaft. You are also going to need a press to put the new on one.
Usually a screw on each side of armature housing holds the brushes in place. Unscrew and a spring should pop out so be careful: it (spring) holds the brushes against armature for electrical contact.
Well, you've probably already done it but make sure you HAVE removed the motor brushes. Usually hidden under a couple of plastic plugs that unscrew. That releases the commutator. The motor should then slide out. Depending on exactly which Ryobi planer you have be aware that sometimes there's a sticker on the end of the motor that actually hides a circlip or other holding device. Good luck!
Yes you need to split cases to check the transmission and once you've spitted the cases, it is best to renew the bearings cause is quite a trouble to do that again soon if any of the bearing are about to go bad.
This is likely a mechanical problem caused by either 1. A serious imbalance with the cutter attatched to it 2. The engine is failing and the main crankshaft bearings are worn causing crankshaft "wobble" setting up the heavy vibration you speak of.
This is Mogsey above, I have now renewed the bearings in my Zanussi Jetsystem 1600, Model FJD1666W. Had a man in to help. It really is a two man job and I put my back doing this with him. The bearings were much larger than previously encountered. Very! basically you have get out the residue water, release the door seal and (pipe attached) spit the m/c casing, unclip all hoses attached to drum, unclip all drum wiring ,remove belt (note position) remove motor &, lay to one side, withdraw nylon pins from shock absorbers, Look for and remove the little earthing cable set just inside the pulley rim. Carefully release drum/case supporting springs (mark positions top and bottom) and, drop drum/case onto some blocks and lift/pull/take out (really needs two people) (minding other modules). Split drum/case ring of bolts, remove front half (careful here not to damage the heater). take half containing drum outside, lay drum face down and use a drift to hit the socket headed screw securing pulley hard to shake up the taper. Remove this screw (needs good quality allen key) and use wedges to the force off the drum drive pulley. Support drum casing on blocks or put drum on its side, support the drum if on its side and use a heavy drift and hammer to knock through the drum spindle. Careful now to avoid grating hands on the sharp drum holes. With drum now removed place the casing drive end up (ensuring protuding heater is clear of the ground!) put a large bolt (head down) inside the first bearing and rest it on the edge of the inner bearing. Carefully working round the inner bearing edge use a hammer and the bolt head as a drift to knock out the inner (the larger of the two bearings and inturn the drum seal) (note seal postion). Turn over the casing and knock out the outer bearing from inside the drum casing. Clean all and check condition of spider/spindle & renew if damaged. Fit the new outer bearing then the new inner followed by the seal. Dig out the old and renew the (green) O ring seal between the drum casing halves. Replace all, but give a quick test run before replacing casing to ensure belt is positioned correctly. The job would have cost £115 which I think is well worth paying someone to do.
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