SOURCE: whirlpool washer F22
thats a door lock failure code try unplugging the washer then let me know shut the door firmley before operating
SOURCE: Washer leaks during wash cycle
Taking a top loader apart is simple if you follow these steps:
1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
The drain pump is the most common cause of leaks. It will be located in the front of the washer. Check the drain hoses and clamps as well. If the pump is leaking, it is NOT serviceable and cannot be repaired. It must be replaced.
Check the wash tub to ensure there are no cracks causing the leak.
To reinstall the outer case and components, follow these steps:
1. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
4. Reinstall operator console.
This is not a difficult repair, but if you have questions, please let me know.
SOURCE: e3 keeps poping up
Hello leggettelect,
The e3 code has to do with the Hall Sensor. This is a sensor that looks at motor RPM. There have been some issues with the wire harness or the harness connectors being loose. You can also get the code if the sensor itself is loose and cant read the motor RPM. Here is a link to a tech bulletin from Maytag explaining it in more detail and has some pictures so you can see what to check. Hope this will fix your problem.
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/TDL-0078A-B.pdf
Thanks,
edgin96
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ryan_7b238a1b08d97b98
SOURCE: Door locked on compact Whirlpool front-load washer
This worked for me. I turned off the washer and hit the area on the washer directly to the right of the door handle (not hard enough to break something or cause a dent). It popped right open.
SOURCE: At the middle of my load there was stop with code symbol E3
E3 is that the machine can't see that the motor is spinning. Could either be a loose connector at the motor or a loose hall-effect sensor. this might be a fairly easy fix for a repair tech,
353 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×