How to tighten the lines on my retractable clothes line

Does anyone know what you are talking about, I’m sorry

How to Tighten Water Supply Line Connectors ' The Family ...

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Hand-tightened compression nuts for water supply lines always seem to need an extra turn with pliers. But a big part of the problem is low-quality supply lines.

With the wheel removed, look behind the caliper there are 2 bolts that hold the caliper in place. Completely remove the lower bolt and loosen the top. The caliper will then swing upwards exposing the old pads. Remove cover off master cylider reservior. Leave both old pads in place for now. slide the far side pad over to the near side pad and using a channel-lock wrench, squeeze slowly and steadily. this will cause your brake cylider to retract, pushing the fluid backwards through the line and into the reservior. Once the cylinder is retracted, remove old pads and place new pads on either side. Align caliper and swing it down. Replace lower bolt and tighten upper.

Rear To Remove:

1. Remove the brake master cylinder filler cap and remove fluid until the reservoir is half full.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly. CAUTION
   Never allow the brake caliper to hang from the brake hose.
   
4. Remove the two disc brake caliper pin bolts.
5. Lift the disc brake caliper from the anchor plate and position the caliper out of the way. Do not disconnect the fluid line.
6. Inspect the disc brake caliper for leaks and replace the caliper if necessary.
7. Remove the pads and retraction clips.

To Install:
CAUTION
Do not allow grease, oil, brake fluid or other contaminants to contact the pad lining material.

1. Install retraction clips.
2. Install the brake pads.
3. Slowly compress the caliper pistons with a large C-clamp. CAUTION
   Use care not to damage the bleeder screw or front disc brake rotor shield.
   
4. Install the disc brake caliper.
5. Install the disc brake caliper pin bolts. Tighten the pin bolts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm) (F-250, F-350 SRW). Tighten the pin bolts to 56 ft. lbs. (76 Nm) (F-350 DRW). Tighten the pin bolts to 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm) (F-450 F-550).
6. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with DOT 3 motor vehicle brake fluid.
9. Inspect for correct brake operation.

If it's just a hole on steel line get a piece of rubber fuel line and 2 gas line clamps. Cut the line at the hole and clean it off with a piece of emery cloth or sandpaper. Slide the rubber hose and clamps onto one side and then over the other.Place the clamps on either side of the cut and tighten.
If it's plastic line then there is a brass compression fitting you can use. Measure the size of the line and get the fitting to match. Cut the line and clean it off. Slide one nut and the ferrule onto the line and thread it onto the union. Do the other side and tighten but not too tight or you will compress the line. Start the car and check for leaks. Tighten only until the leaking, if any, stops and quit.
Hope this helps.

Measure the outside dimension of the line and head down to the auto parts store. If it is rusty where it broke you need to get a piece of fuel line with enough length to bypass the weak spot, usually 2 or 3 feet. Make sure they give you fuel line and not brake line. There is a difference in thickness. Also get 2 compression fittings the same size as the line and some emery cloth and a small tubing cutter.
Cut out the bad piece of line, on a straight section, and clean up the good ends with the emery cloth so the ferrules will slide on easily. Put the nut on first, then the ferrule and the the union. Withthe line butted snug in the union slide the ferrule in snug and tighten the nut. Don't overtighten, it's easy to wreck your joint. Do the same with the new piece of line. Start the car and check for leaks. Tighten nuts that need to be tightened if it's leaking, and you are done.
You shoul be able to do this for about $20-$30. Hope this helps.

You have an air lock in the fuel lines

To clear it you will need to go to the point where the fuel line meets the injection system and loosen the nut on the joint .

Turn the engine over with a rag wrapped around the joint until fuel comes through, once it has soaked the cloth tighten the nut and try the engine.

If you are runing on diesel then there are a number of bleed points on the fuel lines which are designed to let the air escape in a controlled manner

Might be air in the lines..
Try bleeding the lines..
Open the master cap..
open the bleed valves and let it run (not letting the master empty) until you feel the lines have been fully exchanged.. Do Not pump the breaks while doing this..
Tighten bleed valves and master cap back on.

PS; hile bleeding - if you see any litle bubles coming out - that was the aitr in the lines..

Hope this helps !! Rate ell ;o)

The easiest way is to cut it out and replace it with a piece of steel brake line and a pair of compression fittings. Use a small tubing cutter to cut out the bad piece and clean up the ends with some emery cloth so that the ferrule will slide on the old line. Don't forget to put the nut on first.Put it together loosefirst and make sure you push the lines all the way into the fittings before you tighten the nuts. IT could leak if you don't but don't overtighten them or you will squash the line. If you can't get the old line smooth enough to slide ferrules on then get some rubber gas hose and clamps. Be sureto push the steel lines together before you tighten the clamps because the line is pressurized. You may have to double clamp the lines to prevent leaking. Once you have it together start the truck and crawl back under and check for leaks. Tighten what is leaking enoughto stop the leaks and you are good to go. Don't forget to bring a pail to catch gas when you cut the line. Hope this helps.

Sounds like a load of ------ to me but what are you going to do. The line should be steel and you can make a quick reliable fix. Locate the leak, the line will be attached to the frame, on the inside, probably the driver's side. There will be probably at least 3 lines in 2 different sizes. The main fuel feed to the engine should be a 3/8 lineand the others 1/4. The leaky one will be wet. Go to Your local auto parts store and pick up a compression fitting for the problem line and a roll of emery cloth. This should be around $10. Cut the line at the leak, using a small bucket to catch the gas thats going to leak out. Take a piece of emery cloth and clean both ends of the pipe so that the brass nut and the ferrules will slide snugly onto the line on both sides and join with the union. When you put the line with the ferrule on, make sure the gas line is pushed all the way into the union before you tighten it. Tighten it up and start the truck to check for leaks. If it leaks tighten it a little more. This will last for as long as you own the truck.It you can't get the line smooth enough to get the compression fitting on, take a small piece of rubber gas lineand put in on in place of the fitting. Use screw clamps for a gas line to tighten the rubber line to the steel line. You may need to use 4 screw clamps instead of 2 if the line is rough. Don't shorten the steel line if you have to use the rubber line because your fuel system is pressurized and a gap can create problems down the road. This repair will cost about the same as the other and last just as long. The compression fitting will work on plastic line as well. This should get you on the road leak free and not out a bundle.