Question about Kenmore Refrigerators

2 Answers

My Kenmore Bottom Mount Refrigerator was turned off for several months. The interior light comes on and the motors are audible, but no cooling taking place. Can you help?

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  • Expert
  • 128 Answers

Hi! I would like to help with your problem but would need a model# to diagnose it. Typically you should be able to unplug it for a while and go back to a normal use without any issues. I am also wondering if this is in your house or possibly in the garage?

Posted on Apr 10, 2018

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 2,904 Answers

Hello, Laura -

I am guessing you do not have the owner's manual for the refrigerator and you cannot check the "troubleshooting" section of the manual.

In case you do not have the manual, this is a link to a free PDF format (Adobe Acrobat Reader software needed - free) of the manual:
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals/59671813101-Kenmore-Parts-BOTTOMMOUNTREFRIGERATOR-manual

Check Page 19 of the manual, "Before Calling For Service."

The first 2 problems and solutions listed are regarding the refrigerator not operating. If none of the solutions listed seem to get your refrigerator to start working, you will need to call for service.

Best wishes.

Posted on Apr 10, 2018

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5 Suggested Answers

francis rivero

  • 958 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore model 59675502400

if the evaporator is clogged with ice, then you have a defrost problem.
check the defrost heater and the bi-metal .

to answer your question what controls the fan then it is the module that controls the fan.

you said you have diagnostic to test the damper then there should be a procedure also to test the evaporator fan motor.

why don't you try it..

tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool


Posted on Aug 26, 2008

aborcass

Ron Coons

  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Bottom Freezer - only top does not work

i would check to see if you hear a an blowing in the freezer sect when the door is opened, if you cant hear the fan blowing then there is yout issue, not circulating air up to refrig compartment

Posted on Nov 17, 2008

Anonymous

  • 399 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator and freezer not cooling but lights are on and motor

It's not cool If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

  • Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”


  • Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.


Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

  • The compressor


  • The Thermostat


  • The overload, relay, or capacitor


  • The defrost timer


  • The condenser fan motor


Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator

Posted on Dec 06, 2008

Maytag317

Victor

  • 1136 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Bottom-Freezer Refrigerator humming/buzzing sound

HI, The nouse you are hearing is the relay on the compressor. It is possible the relay is going bad but, there is also a chance the conpressor is the problem. You should get a service amn to check it out. I would hate to se you change the relay and then the compressor ruin that too.
I hope tis helps.

Vic

Posted on May 20, 2009

1234max

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore refrigerator not cooling

I think you are wrong. Had the same problem. Purchased it at Sears 6 yrs. ago. What a mistake, not very helpful, condascending people. Call Centre personnel go by rote. Had to wait 5 days for repairman, cancelled Sears and went to a small private outfit. It wasn't the compressor at all. It was the condenser and guess what there was no dirt on the condenser. Total bill for part and labor $129.00 Can. BE CAREFUL WHO U CALL FOR SERVICE!!

Posted on Aug 04, 2010

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Hi,

I think the defrost timer/control board is hanging up...



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2 Answers

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If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions: Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.” Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.

Next, see if the compressor motor is running The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help. If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
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  • The Thermostat
  • The overload, relay, or capacitor
  • The defrost timer
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Jane0901. Go to the following web site. Look at the solution section concerning Sears Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";}Service flash "sf46-515". I am "DaleCos" and have the same problem. I have reported the probem to Consumer Reports and the Consumer Product Safety Commission. More people need to contact these two organizations. Good luck.
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Totally Unreasonable if you don't mind me saying so. The person who told you that story was thinking of an absorption unit more than likely.

Your proble is related to the defrost system of your refrigerator. There is a timer that automatically starts the defrost. It energizes the heaters that defrost the cooling coil. After the coil reaches a preset temperature a defrost terminator turns the heater off for the remaining time on the timer cycle. You could have a bad timer (stalled) which would not start the defrost. Locate the timer and turn the clutch head screw clockwise very SLOWLY until you hear one audible click. The defrost should take place and will be indicated by water in the drain pan under the refrigerator. If after 25 minutes it does not restart in the cooling mode turn the screw once again to the second click and replace the timer.

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