- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hi,
I don't think vacumming the coils will help at this point... you have bigger problems then that... Here are a couple of tips that will give you some things to check out...
Check to make sure the evap fan is running. IF so, then let unit defrost, then turn back on, check for air comming thru top of refrig vent, if air moving ok, then let run for a few days and see if refrig warms again, if so then check for frost build up on back wall of inside freezer, if so, you have a defrost problem. With a defrost problem, defrost heater may be bad, defrost timer/electronic control may be defective. Either way, in most cases it is a defrost problem unless you don't have air moving and fan is running in this case you have a damper door problem inside air duct in refrig.
On some Amana refrigs , the defrost thermostat has to close before the fan will come on . The coils will get cold and since the bimetal clips onto the coils , it will get cold as they do . When cold enough , bimetal closes and the fan will come on . Are the coils getting cold ? If so , then the compressor is working . You could also have a bad fan motor instead of bimetal . Recheck to see if you hear the fan in freezer now .
1 the defrost timer should cut off every 6 8 or 12 hours (unless its electronic or wired to accuminilate time). If the defrost timer is direct and alwaqys has the timer motor advancing every 6,8 or 12 hours it has to cut off.
2 I have had what I believed to be a clear defrost problem because the evaporator coil is froze up. However I find after a reoccouriung problem like you discribe that (maybe in addition to the timer) the suction pressure is low and the compressor is running all the time. Thus the sysytem is low on charge.
3 The frost pattern will be the most tell tell sign of your problem. A slightly clear evaporator on a few passes could indicate the need to check the sealed system and charge.A mostly blocked evaporator with little space for the air to be drawn through indicates agaIN THE defrost is not working or the defrost thermostat is cuting out before the heat has time to complete the defrost. A fan inside that is running and a freezer getting cold but the refrig isnt is mostly a damper or air flow from fan problem.
If your refrigerator temperature is closer to 35 degrees, try turning the temperature up slightly.
If
you find that the temperature varies a lot from the top shelf to the
bottom (where it is coldest), try putting produce and other sensitive
products on a higher shelf.
If the temperature is too
low and you can't make it warmer by adjusting the thermostat, you
probably have a defective thermostat. If so, you need to replace it,
because they cannot be repaired. Other possible problems are a leak in
the sealed (refrigerant) system, cold air migration (in side-by-side
models) or a defective air damper. These problems can be quite
difficult to locate and correct, we recommend you contact a qualified
appliance repair technician.
The refrig side does not have a fan. only the freezer. Is that fan working??? you will hear it when the unit is running (and not in defrost) The clicking you hear is the Damper (a motorized door allowing more or less air to the refrig) opening or closing. Is there frost buildup on the back wall of the freezer??
Do you know if the compressor in the back is running? If you can check that out get back to me and we can go from there. Most times if the fan in the freezer is running the defrost timer is ok.
×