How to put batteries in voltage tester . model # 364_5015

alternator has no fuse --what year make model engine of vehicle what didnt read the tester-battery--alternator and voltage regulators in newer cars is usually within pcm (cars computer )

A load tester is typically a resistance pack with an amp gauge to see how the battery deals with current draw. most automotive parts stores have one to bench test car/motorcycle batteries, which they do at no charge (pardon the pun).

Batteries can have a "surface charge"(voltage) which will supply low current at the specified voltage from a battery with bad cells, but when a real operating load, such as for an electric motor, the charge drops to zip..

If the charger is putting out voltage to the battery while it's plugged in then it would definitely be a battery issue, generally the charging system for electric wheel-chairs has regulatory circuits to prevent over charging so having one plugged in when not in use typically doesn't cause issues.

All of these non-contact voltage testers require a battery. On this one, its located under the pocket clip assembly at the top. Consult the manual page 3 here: http://www.kleintools.com/sites/kleintools/files/instructions/NCVT-1-Non-Contact-Voltage-Tester-Instructions.pdf for instructions on how to install the two AAA batteries.

you should check the alternator to see if it is putting out the proper volts to charge the battery.plus i would have the alternator bench tested and have the battery checked to, most auto stores will bench test the alternator and put a load test on the battery for free.the alternator has a voltage regulator built in that controls the voltage GMC is famous for the regulators going good luck

IDEAL 61-065 does not have continuity function and therefore does not need batteries. If you have different model (like 61-076) then check if leads are good first.

Your alternator is putting out good voltage, so internal voltage regulator is working, but what's happening the Diode is what going bad, the alternator put's out ac voltage, and the Diode turn it to dc voltage, could mess up your battery and elec. system, the Diode are like a one way valve, have it checked with a alternator, battery, starter tester, most auto parts will do this for free, if Diode's are bad it will show up in there tester.

It takes two type 357 button cells. Fry's sells for $2, Radio Shack for about $3.
Make sure + sides goes into the body, not the cap.

the altenators voltage regulator is at fault. A replacement is nessesary to keep your new battery charged all the time

You unscrew the UPS cover to get it open.
1. Find the fuse, see and check if it is alright with a
multi tester. Set the tester at Ohms 1 x 10, and
put the red probe of the tester at one end of the
fuse, while the black probe to the other end of the
fuse. The pointer must be at zero. Otherwise, have
it replaced.
2. Test your UPS, if it is working. It it works, then,
it is a job well done.
3. If not, proceed testing the batteries for voltage
reading. Set the multi tester at DC volts 1 x 25 V
If this will register a residual voltage of 2 volts, try
plugging your UPS to an outlet. Test is after 2
hours. If the voltage improves, say 8 volts, then,
plug this back until the battery reaches the full
voltage rating.
4.Hook it up to your PC, and it's done.

I assume a "DM-350a" is some kind of a digital multimeter. I Googled and found it might be a "A.W. Sperry DM350A 5 Function 17 Range Digital Multimeter" and looking at the ranges available on that meter, you can't really thest the battery "under load" the only reasonable way to test small batteries. the DC current only goes up to 200 milli amperes. A "C" or "D" size flashlight battery puts out 1 to 4 amps depending on conditions. That's 5 to 20 times the current readable by that meter. The volts on one of those batteries is probably 1.6 volts to 1.3 volts etc. If you live in the United States, I'd say go to Radio Shack and spend $5 to $15 and buy a battery tester like "Enercell Analog 9-Range Battery Checker, $14.99, Model 22-156, catalog # 22-156"
Then you and anyone in your family can read the instructions and test 8 or 9 different type batteries. Battery types: 1.5V button-cells, "AAA"/"N"/"AA"/"C"/"D", 6V, 9V, 12V, 15V and 22.5V..
This is not supposed to be an advertizement, and I have no interest in RadioShack,... but it's supposed to be instructional.

Small price, Good instruction to anyone who can read, and if anyone forgets, they can re-read. Testing a lot of batteries in a sitting goes very fast with these.

Differently, with the sperry, or any voltmeter, you'd have to select a resistor small enough to draw the current, and large enough not to overheat or burn, connect it and measure the loaded voltage drop, compare the voltage and current of the loaded battery, and compare it to that of a new battery, and a battery you might consider too weak for your application.. Voltage equals amps times resistance, and power equals amps squared times resistance... Really, buy a battery tester.
Regards --- GooseBay_Camper